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[4]

Winner Home Grown Cutter Grinder

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Bill Gruby

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#1
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With the demise of the grind shop I use to grind end-mill etc. I need to get a dedicated Cutter Grinder. A few years ago I was given some parts from a Tip Lap Grinder. Today I went shopping with the little woman and found that Sheet Cake Pan at a restaurant supply house. The wheels started turning an my head and a Cutter Grinder came into view.

It will take quite a little imagination and work to pull this off bet the journey will be well worth it. Stick around, this will be fun.

"Billy G" :thinking:
 
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Hawkeye

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#2
I'm watching, Bill. I built an R8 collet spindle a few years ago with most of the angle adjustments worked out, but it stalled and I need to build the motor/grinder module to get it back on line.
 

Bill Gruby

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#3
That's on the menu to be done first Hawk. Grind head is #! then I can align the Work Head to it and build up from there. I've been going to do this up for some time now. I hope it will help you with yours. That pan was only $11.95. I couldn't fabricate one for that.

"Billy G"
 

Tony Wells

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#4
I've been tempted to launch a Quorn project, but located a Rockwell grinder that runs I can get reasonable. That way I can focus on buying or building just the missing accessories. Or I can tool up my small SG for it. A little awkward, but workable as a tool grinder. The sure come in handy.
 

Bill Gruby

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#5
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This is what we are shooting for guys. This one is by David Haythornthwaite. Tony, if you look close a lot of the one in the picture is Quorn cloned. I have the Quorn Mk II prints here. I am going with a 5C work head.

"Billy G"
 
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Bill Gruby

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#6
102_0248 (700 x 465).jpg
After total disassembly it is about what I expected. I got lucky as most of the parts I need from this are OK. The missing parts I can make and some parts for my use will need to be done. Gonna take some work but it looks lik a doer.

"Billy G"
 
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Bill Gruby

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#7
102_0249 (750 x 498).jpg
Big relief, the thrust bearing is OK.

"Billy G"
 
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Bill Gruby

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#8
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These riser blocks need to be modified. That is todays project so far. The black hashed areas need to be removed.

"Billy G"
 
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Rbeckett

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#9
Bill,
You know that when you get this project done your going to be swamped with requests for a place to send cutters for sharpening. I for one know I would love to find a reliable high quality fellow who I know would do the best job possible everytime. Any possibility to save or salvage any of the equipment the fire damaged? If for no other reason than to have a pattern for reverse engineering suitable replacements or for that fact as templates for an entirely whole new machine? I had looked into doing the Foley-Bellsaw circular saw sharpening deal when I first got disabled and putting up a card in all the box stores and larger building supply houses. Cant remember why I decided not to pursue it now, but it must have been a good reason back then. Might have to revisit that and have another look and see if it is a viable source of income for raw materials and equipment to support this hobby. Could turn out that my hobby could become self supporting with a little patience and time...


Bob
 

Bill Gruby

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#10
102_0252 (650 x 432).jpg
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The insurance company won't let us anywhere near the place. The investigation is still ongoing. When it's done all the property is theirs. Sad.

OK, they are rough cut. And done.

"Billy G"
 
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Bill Gruby

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#11
102_0254 (700 x 465).jpg
The locking surface on the 30 degree tilt is worn badly. It is worn below the pivot arbor and cannot tighten properly. I will reface it flat and build it back up using a bronze washer.

"Billy G"
 
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Bill Gruby

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#12
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Spotfaced to +.065. Now to make the washer.

"Billy G"
 
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#13
102_0256 (700 x 465).jpg
102_0257 (700 x 465).jpg


New face washer and lock is 100%.

"Billy G"
 
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Bill Gruby

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#15
Yes Dan, that is it's purpose. If the splash becomes too much, plexiglass sides will be added. As you see it, it's 1 inch deep.

"Billy G"
 
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f350ca

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#16
Hope I'm not hijacking your thread, just hoping to give you some more ideas
I built a single lip cutter grinder fashioned off the Deckel ones. Still need to make some holders for end mills and such but for now works for lathe and shaper tools and D bits.
Used a tread mill motor to dial in 3600 for the wheel shown or 5000 for a diamond faced wheel I have.

IMG_0413.jpg

IMG_0412.jpg

Greg

IMG_0413.jpg IMG_0412.jpg
 

DAN_IN_MN

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#17
Hope I'm not hijacking your thread, just hoping to give you some more ideas
I built a single lip cutter grinder fashioned off the Deckel ones. Still need to make some holders for end mills and such but for now works for lathe and shaper tools and D bits.
Used a tread mill motor to dial in 3600 for the wheel shown or 5000 for a diamond faced wheel I have.

View attachment 65371

View attachment 65372

Greg
Greg

Simply brilliant! What did you start with? How much did you build yourself? Do you have a build thread?
 

Bill Gruby

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#18
Tomorrow is another day. I have to make a travel stop to limit the movement of the work holder across the wheel. This was one of the parts that is missing.

"Billy G"
 
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DMS

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#19
Wow bill, I figured you had posted this and it was gonna be a nice slow build I could follow along with. Next thing I know you're halfway done with the dang thing ;) Looking good in any case, and I'm excited to see the end product.
 

dave2176

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#20
Bill,
This is an awesome thread. Thanks for taking the time to share this.
Dave
 

Bill Gruby

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#21
Wow bill, I figured you had posted this and it was gonna be a nice slow build I could follow along with. Next thing I know you're halfway done with the dang thing ;) Looking good in any case, and I'm excited to see the end product.

Not really doing anything right now other than making the part I had been given into something that will work for me. It will slow down real soon. So far I have only made two blocks and a washer. The grinder in posts #16&#17 is not mine. :lmao: Hang in there.

"Billy G"
 
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Bill Gruby

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#22
Now we slow down Matt. This is the bushing that the infeed stop will be mounted to. It is at the right end of the work head base. 3 mounting holes to drill and tap yet. A lot of parts need to be made as they are either missing or the existing ones won't work.

"Billy G"

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Bill Gruby

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#23
When mounted it will look like this one.

"Billy G"

untitled (700 x 465).jpg
 

Tony Wells

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#24
But I trust you will do the countersinks the correct size.
 

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#25
That's funny Tony. If the rest of you hadn't noticed the countersinks in the photo are too small. Good catch. Don't really need to countersink them. I'm going with SS Button heads. There is plenty of room.

"Billy G"
 
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Tony Wells

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#26
That's just the OCD kicking in, Bill.

I try to avoid countersinking that close to a shoulder anyway. You have to have some odd-ball OD tool for that most of the time. In production, you just grind the OD to what you need, but for a one-off......I avoid it. Button heads ought to be plenty strong for that application.
 

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#27
This part is now done. The holes are not a mistake. I cut them to the outside so that I can leave them slightly loose during assembly. This allows the Bushing to self-align.

"Billy G"

102_0260 (700 x 465).jpg
 

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#28
Going to try and get this part done today if I have the stock. 3/4 X 3 X 6 -- 6061. It's the Infeed Stop Arm.

"Billy G"

102_0262 (750 x 498).jpg
 
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Bill Gruby

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#29
Drilled and tapped the Work Head Base 6-32. It did self align during tightening. This is the part that the arm will attach to.

"Billy G"

102_0263 (750 x 498).jpg
 
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Bill Gruby

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#30
The arm is started. Newbies take heed. Look at how the part is chucked up. This, although doable. is NOT to be taken for granted. Care must be observed and low spindle RPM adhered to. If you are going to try it and are not comfortable with it, DO NOT ATTEMPT IT.

"Billy G"

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