I just took a look at my 7 x 16 (LMS 7350) to even think about "stairs" tailstock and chuck removed are a must, chip shield and bottom tray so you might get a better grip.. tool holder, compound and handwheels, not much weight but easily damaged.. if it was a once a month thing I might think about it, but the chances of damaging the lathe or myself would point in the "no" direction.. I've seen some incredible things made on Sherlines, unimats and other lathes..
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How portable is a 7x16 lathe?
- Thread starter twigg
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A 7x16 weighs about 90lbs, I don't see losing 1/3 of the weight in a way that makes sense every time you want to use it.
A couple of options, most involving a smaller lathe.
A 7x10 is half the length ( in reality these are 7x8 lathes) so both lighter and less awkward to move, less length but maintains the swing. A Sherline, Taig, Unimat or Proxxon are all much more portable and offer more precision at the cost of size.
Is there any possibility, you could store the lathe out of the way in the workshop instead of carrying it upstairs?
A couple of options, most involving a smaller lathe.
A 7x10 is half the length ( in reality these are 7x8 lathes) so both lighter and less awkward to move, less length but maintains the swing. A Sherline, Taig, Unimat or Proxxon are all much more portable and offer more precision at the cost of size.
Is there any possibility, you could store the lathe out of the way in the workshop instead of carrying it upstairs?
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If you do have to carry it upstairs after every use, Find a way to mount good handles to it. A proper grip and balanced weight will feel a lot lighter than something hard to hold and or unbalanced. That is why the duffel bag worked well, good handles for a comfortable grip and all weight is below the grip for good balance.
Thanks again for the replies! Definitely rethinking things once again. I really appreciate all the feedback!!
View attachment 356867
The sherline and taig lathes are also on my shortlist, I just wasn't confident that they'd be able to handle the operations I described above. I have also looked at listings in my area, but all I've found are pricey 109s and a Hardinge cataract with the lever cross-slide and turret that I didn't think would be able to do what I want unless I found a compound for it and looks like it'd still be a bear to lift.
Do you think I'm asking for too much in too small a lathe?
I hear you on the possibility of damaging the lathe when moving it repeatedly.
Edit: I forgot I don't have full permissions yet and it looks like my picture doesn't come through. If you google "frosty tee burner", you'll find pictures of a larger version of what I meant to post. Just to give you an idea of where the hole is on the tee. The ones you'll see probably have 1" x 3/4" black iron tees, mine's a 1/4" x 1/4". On such a small burner, the accuracy of that drilled hole (how concentric it is relative to the rest of the burner) matters a lot. I ran into a wall of how accurate I could center that hole using a drill press after weeks of experimentation.
For now, I've been interested in custom propane burners for forges and hand torches. One day I'd like to try model steam engines, but I haven't thought at all about which plans I would follow. In the immediate future, the biggest parts I have in mind are (1) a stainless burner nozzle that's 1" OD x 1-1/2" long with a tapered ID starting at 0.724" and tapering up to 0.849 (it's a 1-1/2" length of stainless 3/4" schedule 80 pipe with a 1:12 internal taper), and (2) drilling a 25/64 hole on the center of a 1/4" black iron plumbing tee (see picture below, I'm talking about the hole in the plumbing tee where the brass fitting threads in).
View attachment 356867
The sherline and taig lathes are also on my shortlist, I just wasn't confident that they'd be able to handle the operations I described above. I have also looked at listings in my area, but all I've found are pricey 109s and a Hardinge cataract with the lever cross-slide and turret that I didn't think would be able to do what I want unless I found a compound for it and looks like it'd still be a bear to lift.
Do you think I'm asking for too much in too small a lathe?
I hear you on the possibility of damaging the lathe when moving it repeatedly.
Unfortunately no. It's just one of the rules I got to follow using someone else's space.
Edit: I forgot I don't have full permissions yet and it looks like my picture doesn't come through. If you google "frosty tee burner", you'll find pictures of a larger version of what I meant to post. Just to give you an idea of where the hole is on the tee. The ones you'll see probably have 1" x 3/4" black iron tees, mine's a 1/4" x 1/4". On such a small burner, the accuracy of that drilled hole (how concentric it is relative to the rest of the burner) matters a lot. I ran into a wall of how accurate I could center that hole using a drill press after weeks of experimentation.
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Size wise your burner project could be done with a Sherline, Taig or 7x lathe, stainless would be the bigger issue. I've seen people make parts from stainless and titanium with a Sherline, but it can be challenging. Taig and Sherline are capable of better accuracy than the 7" lathes.
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303 on a Sherline is easy. 304 is harder on any machine. 316 is a bear even on a big machine. I turn stainless prop shaft all the time on a Sherline lathe and have no issues with my HSS tools. You are limited primarily with the work envelope on a Sherline lathe, not so much the material.
I find that my Taig lathe and Taig mill are very capable of accuracy and cutting various materials within reasonable size limits. The lathe weight is light. however, the mill is around the same weight as a mini lathe, if my recollection is correct.