How To Make Your Own Bronze Bushing

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Kroll

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Guys on my other post I was giving some very good information about drill rod and bronze for bushings.So what I am looking at is this http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=760&step=2.Which one,is there an advantage hollow over solid?In the gear that I need to replace the bushings how does a person remove the bushing,guessing to use a punch?Then how to install the bushing,use a press,if it comes out correctly after turning?Guys the drill rod is .562 but the one I am replacing on a good spot it is .557 which does slide in/out easy and no play.I believe the .562 will be a snug fit.
Now to bore/drill to .562 should I use just a good 9/16 drill bit or come close to it then use a reamer?Guys this is new to me which means that I have never have machine to to very close fit.My working lathe is a Sears/Atlas which all I have done is make some knobs.Any Youtubes or links or just some good old fashion advice.Thanks----kroll
 
I would make the OD of the bush .0005" - >001" interference fit and press them in. Alternative would be a net fit to .0005" loose and use locktite to fix the bushing. A good rule of thumb for the ID is to assume the bore will shrink half the press fit.
 
Standard press fit is one thousandth over the size of the hole per inch of diameter. So in your case .0005" over is just right.
When I press fit a bushing I freeze the bushing and heat the part. It also helps to bore the ID under size and wait for the part to come to room temp and ream to the correct size.
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What Grumpy said. I will be making a bronze bushing tomorrow, 6" od 5" id 3 3/4" long. A little one.:rolleyes:

Oh and as for " advantage hollow over solid? " Hollow is usually much cheaper and less waste.
Also I would check McMasters . Small bushing like that are usually much cheaper to buy than make. When I replaced 4 bushing in my atlas it was under $10.00 for the 4 and material would of coast $30.00
 
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drilling makes holes
just that holes, not round,, not up to size with no finish
reamers make round holes up to size and with a finish
 
I wish you were closer, I'd walk you through all of this. Porter is about 3 1/2 hours south for me.

I would tend to agree that purchasing simple bushings is the way to go, but once you get away from standard sizes and fits, you're on your own to machine them. It's pretty straightforward if you have the equipment, but too many times the bushing is for the equipment needed to produce it. Once you get torn down to replace shafts and bushings, it's hard to put everything back together and make parts. It's good to have multiple machines, or friends to help.
 
Kroll said:
Guys on my other post I was giving some very good information about drill rod and bronze for bushings.So what I am looking at is this http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=760&step=2.Which one,is there an advantage hollow over solid?In the gear that I need to replace the bushings how does a person remove the bushing,guessing to use a punch?Then how to install the bushing,use a press,if it comes out correctly after turning?Guys the drill rod is .562 but the one I am replacing on a good spot it is .557 which does slide in/out easy and no play.I believe the .562 will be a snug fit.
Now to bore/drill to .562 should I use just a good 9/16 drill bit or come close to it then use a reamer?Guys this is new to me which means that I have never have machine to to very close fit.My working lathe is a Sears/Atlas which all I have done is make some knobs.Any Youtubes or links or just some good old fashion advice.Thanks----kroll
Click to expand...

You're best making a stepped collar that fits over an extractor bolt made from tensile threaded bar and a nylock nut and slip that in through the inside of the bush , on the outside use a pipe /tube as a sleeve slightly bigger than the bushing to be extracted and another turn up another thick collar that fits the tube , now use nuts on the threaded bar to slowly & evenly extract the bushing.

If you can enclose the part in a closed up cardboard box that contains a lit 100 watt incandescent bulb for a four or five hours to warm it all up to just about hand hot before you use the extractor so much the better . Just stay with it to ensure it does not get too hot and cause a fire.


Doing it by the above stops you damaging the walls that the hammered out bush might / often get. Plus if the bush holder is likely to be delicate using the threaded extractor only stresses the immediate area around the bush .

If the bush is still exceedingly tight you can sometimes use a hacksaw blade and make a couple of full length cuts along it's axis to weaken the bushing a bit. It has also been known for someone ( Me ) to pack the warmed up bush and part with ice to try and break any adhesion , then as soon as the ice is in immediately give it a dose of decent easing oil around the edges of the bush , leave it a day and then do the reheat with the bulb before retrying the screw extraction again.

I've also had to hand file out quite a few four inch six inc long x 1/4 " walled phosphor bronze bushes , filing right through in two places about an inch apart and then knocking the inch strip out into the middle .

Use the collars and threaded draw rod idea in reverse to fit/ pull in your new bushes as it is about the best way of keeping them parallel to the bore , again warm the host and freeze the bushing as has already been said.
 
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Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

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"In the gear that I need to replace the bushings how does a person remove the bushing,guessing to use a punch?Then how to install the bushing,use a press,if it comes out correctly after turning"

I remove and install bushings like this.
 
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