How To Make Your Own Bronze Bushing

Fellows,

Something to remember if you use Oilite bushings is that the bearing surface of the bushing, whether it be the ID or OD (ID is most common), should not be drilled bored or reamed. If the diameter does need to be adjusted than reaming is the proper method but the reamer must be exceptionally sharp. Drilling, cutting or reaming Oilite bushings smears the porous surface and seals the lubricating sintered surface. This information can be found on Oilite bushing sites.

Vlad
 
grumpygator said:
Standard press fit is one thousandth over the size of the hole per inch of diameter. So in your case .0005" over is just right.
When I press fit a bushing I freeze the bushing and heat the part. It also helps to bore the ID under size and wait for the part to come to room temp and ream to the correct size.
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I once had to replace a blown up nylon timing gear on a made in Germany Mercury Capri V6. The replacement gear was aluminum and interference fit. The instructions were to boil the gear in a pot of boiling water, it fit onto the shaft whoosh without any interference at all and when cooled had a death grip on the shaft.
 
janvanruth said:
drilling makes holes
just that holes, not round,, not up to size with no finish
reamers make round holes up to size and with a finish
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And boring makes round holes that are up to size and concentric with a finish.
 
coolidge said:
I once had to replace a blown up nylon timing gear on a made in Germany Mercury Capri V6. The replacement gear was aluminum and interference fit. The instructions were to boil the gear in a pot of boiling water, it fit onto the shaft whoosh without any interference at all and when cooled had a death grip on the shaft.
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I worked at a company that made underground mining equipment and we had some huge bushings in some of the pivot points on the machine, 8" ID and 10"OD for example. We used liquid nitrogen to freeze the bushings before inserting them in the bores. Some had as much as .008" interference fit but slid in easy when shrunk. The large press was a result of tolerance stack up between the main bore dia. and the ID and OD bushing tolerances.
 
Take a look at Tubal Caine's videos, 46, 47, and 48.
 
How would you create the grooves inside the bronze bushing to adequately disperse oil around the shaft? How deep should the grooves be? I am in need of new bushings for my Van Norman and do not know how to create the "X" pattern on the inside surface. There are also grooves on each side to capture the oil and not allow it to run out.

I am looking at possibly using 932 Bronze since the component will have Gits oil cups feeding the bearing.
 
Manderioli said:
How would you create the grooves inside the bronze bushing to adequately disperse oil around the shaft? How deep should the grooves be? I am in need of new bushings for my Van Norman and do not know how to create the "X" pattern on the inside surface. There are also grooves on each side to capture the oil and not allow it to run out.

I am looking at possibly using 932 Bronze since the component will have Gits oil cups feeding the bearing.
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I do this all the time. The X grove would require special tools . What I do is a radial grove on each end, then connect them with to groves 180 apart. I have boring bars that use 1/4" or 3/8" HSS bits. For the radial just plunge For the connecting groves spindle off and use the boring bar to scrape them in. The straight groves work just fine.
 
Could you please post photos as I understand the overall concept but am more of a visual leaner?
 
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