How to thread stainless

I would suggest you give the Carmex lay down inserts with a 5/8" right hand external thread holder a try if threading toward the chuck. I would not cheap out on the inserts, the Carmex are about $16 each, I would get two, I am still using my first insert for 2+ years. You might also look into David's book "Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe", lots of good points and specific recommendations for the holders and inserts.

Very simple to setup, and you get very clean cutting. David and I do quite a bit of threading in a wide range of materials and the laydown threading inserts have given very good results. You first need to make sure your cutting tip is at the right height and parallel to the chuck. To get it parallel to the chuck, I use a 123 chuck against the chuck face and bring the tool holder up against the other side of the 123 block and then tighten down your tool post nut. I use the compound locked, doesn't matter what the angle is, I feed each pass with the cross slide. I would at first cut a wider relief groove until you get more proficient and try increasing your threading RPM if using carbide inserts (I would start with 100-120 RPM depending on your gearing). Dimension your rod to the OD of the major thread diameter.

When you start threading, zero your cross slide dial at "0" when the tip of the cutter touches the OD of the rod. I typically take a series of continuous passes at sequential 0.01" depths until I am close to my target depth, then 0.005" and 0.002" and check the nut fit. You will almost always find the minor diameter will need to be a few thousandths deeper than what the dial indicates (i.e. the expected minor diameter). It also depends on the amount of flex in your work, on threading smaller rod I use a live center. You may need to use a fine file to take off the tips of the threads. A spring pass is done as a final pass, usually at the same diameter or 0.001" which should give you a very clean thread. Do not repeat spring passes as it will cause chatter and work harden some materials. You should be able to end up with threads similar to below.

Laydown threader.jpg
 
I've threaded a lot of 316L SS. using a lay flat carbide insert with oil. I usually turn at around 200 rpm, I've yet to have a problem. Be sure the insert is in good condition.
 
I’ve been gone for a while. I have not tried again. Can someone explain how to measure the angle the compound is at? I measured 30 degrees from the chuck to the compound and it was the same as my import lathes scale. I can’t for the life of me figure out why, or how you would measure differently.
 
I would suggest you give the Carmex lay down inserts with a 5/8" right hand external thread holder a try if threading toward the chuck. I would not cheap out on the inserts, the Carmex are about $16 each, I would get two, I am still using my first insert for 2+ years. You might also look into David's book "Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe", lots of good points and specific recommendations for the holders and inserts.

Very simple to setup, and you get very clean cutting. David and I do quite a bit of threading in a wide range of materials and the laydown threading inserts have given very good results. You first need to make sure your cutting tip is at the right height and parallel to the chuck. To get it parallel to the chuck, I use a 123 chuck against the chuck face and bring the tool holder up against the other side of the 123 block and then tighten down your tool post nut. I use the compound locked, doesn't matter what the angle is, I feed each pass with the cross slide. I would at first cut a wider relief groove until you get more proficient and try increasing your threading RPM if using carbide inserts (I would start with 100-120 RPM depending on your gearing). Dimension your rod to the OD of the major thread diameter.

When you start threading, zero your cross slide dial at "0" when the tip of the cutter touches the OD of the rod. I typically take a series of continuous passes at sequential 0.01" depths until I am close to my target depth, then 0.005" and 0.002" and check the nut fit. You will almost always find the minor diameter will need to be a few thousandths deeper than what the dial indicates (i.e. the expected minor diameter). It also depends on the amount of flex in your work, on threading smaller rod I use a live center. You may need to use a fine file to take off the tips of the threads. A spring pass is done as a final pass, usually at the same diameter or 0.001" which should give you a very clean thread. Do not repeat spring passes as it will cause chatter and work harden some materials. You should be able to end up with threads similar to below.

View attachment 366137
Those are beautiful threads, good job.
Initially I planned on buying a thread cutting insert as the easy way out. I can’t easily afford to do that, but thought I would save in the time it took and destroying blanks. After joining this forum and multiple members telling me they accomplish it with a hss blank. I decided I want to learn how to do everything the old school, and the toughest way possible. This way if I have the money to buy nicer tools, I will know that it’s my skills accomplishing the task and not my money.

I have been guilty of throwing money at problems and trying to take shortcuts. I don’t what you to think that I believe you, or David are taking shortcuts with carbide inserts, but for me that’s what it was in my mind.

I have made a deal with myself. Once I accomplish SS 304 threads with my own hss bit successfully, then I will allocate the money for nicer inserts to save myself time and money producing parts.
 
If the compound is perpendicular to the axis of the work, that should be 0 deg (some lathes mark that as 90 deg). From 0, rotate the compound CCW until it is rotated 29.5 deg. Brino was correct that your threads show incorrect angle setting. If you post an overhead pic of the compound setting that would clear things up.
Robert
 
If the compound is perpendicular to the axis of the work, that should be 0 deg (some lathes mark that as 90 deg). From 0, rotate the compound CCW until it is rotated 29.5 deg. Brino was correct that your threads show incorrect angle setting. If you post an overhead pic of the compound setting that would clear things up.
Robert
I will post a picture, but it is marked at 0 when perpendicular and 45 it is parallel, or linear with respect to the head/tail stock.
 
I will post a picture, but it is marked at 0 when perpendicular and 45 it is parallel, or linear with respect to the head/tail stock.

I hope that's a mistake!
..........45 degrees when parallel to the ways?
That should be 90 degrees right?

Either that or it's NOT calibrated in degrees, but 2 degree increments.

-brino
 
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I hope that's a mistake!
..........45 degrees when parallel to the ways?
That should be 90 degrees right?

Either that or it's NOT calibrated in degrees, but 2 degree increments.

-brino
Ya that’s a dumb mistake. I promise I know trig lol.
 

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