HV-6 Rotary table fixture plate build

You could consider some tenon slots on the plate and a tenon slot in a vice. Here is a link to a quick way to set up a job from the centre of the table.
Also a demonstration video
My toolmakers vise has slots for hold downs. I will hold off on tee-slots on the plate. However, If I need them, I'll put them in. Good videos.
 
My toolmakers vise has slots for hold downs. I will hold off on tee-slots on the plate. However, If I need them, I'll put them in. Good videos.
Have you decided how you will make the centre plug? I would suggest considering an expanding plug so it can be locked solid at any height yet easily removed. If it had a concentric reamed counterbore on the top, lots of stepped plugs could easily be made to locate part features on the centre of the table.
 
Have you decided how you will make the centre plug? I would suggest considering an expanding plug so it can be locked solid at any height yet easily removed. If it had a concentric reamed counterbore on the top, lots of stepped plugs could easily be made to locate part features on the centre of the table.
Not sure there are many choices. The hole in the table is a MT2 taper. So I find a soft arbor taper that fits. I have that arbor. I have been using it to locate the fixture plate while I was machining the plate. The only other degree of freedom is how high it is. Too high, it gets in the way. So it has to be level with the table, which makes the arbor a pain to remove. I can bore a hole in the arbor to fit a pin. These pins could be turned in various diameters on top, with a constant bore in the arbor. An MT2 isn't very large, not quite sure I can fit a 1/2" hole in there and get a decent depth to diameter ratio. Might have to go with 3/8" or so.
 
Not sure there are many choices. The hole in the table is a MT2 taper. So I find a soft arbor taper that fits. I have that arbor. I have been using it to locate the fixture plate while I was machining the plate. The only other degree of freedom is how high it is. Too high, it gets in the way. So it has to be level with the table, which makes the arbor a pain to remove. I can bore a hole in the arbor to fit a pin. These pins could be turned in various diameters on top, with a constant bore in the arbor. An MT2 isn't very large, not quite sure I can fit a 1/2" hole in there and get a decent depth to diameter ratio. Might have to go with 3/8" or so.
Sorry, I thought the centre hole was parallel, but still worth boring it out for an accurate counterbore for locating pins. If the bottom half of the plug was threaded it could be pulled out with a bolt and big washer through a tube from the top.
 
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