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If you need gears... Print them...
- Thread starter Ray C
- Start date
- Joined
- May 10, 2014
- Messages
- 819
I have been using my Creality CR-10S for less than 2 weeks, but having a lot of fun. No regrets on this purchase.
As mentioned in earlier posts, easy to assemble, but the instructions are not of much use. YouTube videos are more useful.
The printer comes with everything to begin 3D printing, including a small roll of white PLA. I would get some other rolls of decent brands of PLA in whatever colours you prefer. Look for the good reviews on Amazon.
The Cura software on my SD card was corrupt so I downloaded Slic3r which I am now using. A lot of settings to tweak in any slicing software to improve print quality. I am using a Skirt to assist in preventing warping. This breaks off easily.
I am having good results with 3M blue "Walls and Floors" painters tape. My prints adhere to the tape but the tape can be easily removed from both the glass and the print.
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2017
- Messages
- 3
Great thread - following with interest
- Joined
- May 10, 2014
- Messages
- 819
For those purchasing or considering purchasing the CR10 or CR10S to print change gears and other useful items, some of my experience for my first couple of weeks using the printer.
You will need to tramm the print head with a feeler gauge or piece of paper initially, but eventually a dial indicator holder for the printer head is recommended to be printed to allow using dial indicator for easier and more consistent tramming.
The springs under the bed are not strong so it is easy to flex the springs when using feeler gauge, heck even just touching the knobs when using a dial indicator needs a light touch.
I cannot find the Thingiverse page. I saved the STL file but not the link. Another Thingiverse link which should work.
CR10 dial indicator holder
I recommend the filament guide, especially for CR-10S users since the filament sensor is not screwed in place, only slide over a bracket. The guide takes the strain of the filament and relieves the strain on the filament sensor.
Filament guide
The extruder does not have a knob to push the filament when needed, or to pull when wanting to remove filament from the hot end. Easier to pull the filament than to push, but a knob is better for both. Creality should have included a knob. At least easy to print this one.
Filament knob
It is useful to make test prints to tweak the slicer software. This test print will allow tweaking bridging (printing non-supported horizontal surfaces) and to tweak retraction settings to minimize stringing. This takes about 20mins to print on my CR10S so easy to print, take a look, tweak the slicing software and reprint.
Bridge test
You will need to tramm the print head with a feeler gauge or piece of paper initially, but eventually a dial indicator holder for the printer head is recommended to be printed to allow using dial indicator for easier and more consistent tramming.
The springs under the bed are not strong so it is easy to flex the springs when using feeler gauge, heck even just touching the knobs when using a dial indicator needs a light touch.
I cannot find the Thingiverse page. I saved the STL file but not the link. Another Thingiverse link which should work.
CR10 dial indicator holder
I recommend the filament guide, especially for CR-10S users since the filament sensor is not screwed in place, only slide over a bracket. The guide takes the strain of the filament and relieves the strain on the filament sensor.
Filament guide
The extruder does not have a knob to push the filament when needed, or to pull when wanting to remove filament from the hot end. Easier to pull the filament than to push, but a knob is better for both. Creality should have included a knob. At least easy to print this one.
Filament knob
It is useful to make test prints to tweak the slicer software. This test print will allow tweaking bridging (printing non-supported horizontal surfaces) and to tweak retraction settings to minimize stringing. This takes about 20mins to print on my CR10S so easy to print, take a look, tweak the slicing software and reprint.
Bridge test
Use the Yeggi website and search for dial indicator,
it will show up, along with many other neat items.
I like yeggi because it searches all the 3d websites not just thingiverse.
- Joined
- May 10, 2014
- Messages
- 819
Thanks for the reminder. I may have found it from Yeggi. It is a useful site to find 3D items.
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2013
- Messages
- 334
I've owned a 3d printer for quite a while now and not long after I bought it I went ahead and purchased Simplify3d. Great slicer software. Immediately saw a big improvement in print quality and the ability to tweak just about anything very simply is nice. In fact, I'm printing out some DIN rail cable management clips right now. Once you have one you realize how handy it is to print simple custom "thingies" when needed.
- Joined
- May 10, 2014
- Messages
- 819
If you mean the Creality CR10S, my footprint is about 30in w x 24in deep.
If you needed less width you could make a stand for the base with the power supply underneath and get the width down to 20+ in. You would need to mount the filament somewhere. I have seen spool holders which mount on the top of the frame. I would prefer not to mount in this location, the weight may magnify the vibration.
I just tried some PLA gears for my South Bend that were printed at the library. One was printed at 100% fill and the other at 20% fill. Both worked fine. I glued a washer to the one with lower fill, since although the teeth were strong, the body of the gear was flexing under slight pressure. I was able to cut an 8tpi thread, even with the bit catching and the belt slipping. The gears look fine. The torque was high enough so I couldn't turn the chuck by hand.