If you need gears... Print them...

ttabbal said:
If you would rather not buy a printer, I could print a couple gears for people. But don't let that stop you from getting one, they are great tools to have around. :)

If you want me to print things, you need to be able to supply STLs. I don't have time to do gear designs from scratch. :D
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I would gladly pay you to print me one each 64 & 32 tooth gears at 100% fill so that I could cut my feed rate in half. Please let me know. Thanks!
 
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Just as a FYI I printed off a few gears for the atlas 10 and the center hole came out a smidge small . Was easy enough to fit but they were not quite perfect in that demention . Outer size and tooth pitch looked perfect though when held up to what they are replacing . Could be something I did wrong in the slicer program but I thought I would throw it out here . Specifically it was the 40 tooth double key and the compound gears .
 
FWIW, there are two of all of the change gears except for the 96T. For the 10" up through 10D (10E has no gears but if you add them, you have a 10D), both the face width and the hub width are 3/8". The same gears are used on 101.07360 through 101.07401. The part numbers are 9-101-20 through 9-101-96, where the last two digits are the tooth count.

On the 10F (including the QC models) and on 101.07362 on, the face width is still 3/8" but the hub width is increased to 1/2". And the part numbers are 9-101-20A through 9-101-64A (there is no 96T gear). The latter gears were used in all subsequent production up through 1981.

Bushings and studs follow the same convention. The shorter ones have no suffix letter and the longer ones have suffix "A".

On the other subject (cutting the feed rate in half), the 48T and 24T will do the same thing, are a better fit and should cost less maybe.
 
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