Important non machine tools to have?

[NortonDommi]

Basically you can never have enough tools or a big enough shed .
I have 1,2 & 4 oz ballpein hammers that I use a lot, favorite socket set is 1/4" & 3/8" Metrinch with extra extensions. One of those sets of 100 1/4" drive does everything sets with Torx, security etc tips. Top quality pin punches are a must as are a selection of pliers and I only trust genuine Channellock slip jaws.
Inside & outside calipers and 6" verynears and some good scales.
Everything listed above. As per usual mikey has pretty much nailed it.
One thing I use a lot is a 6" Brass wire brush on the polisher, not as aggressive as the steel wire on a grinder so can be used to clean rust off Chrome, clean threads etc and much general light cleaning, use the steel wire brush mainly for deburring. Especially good for sheetmetal edges.

 

[2volts]

Noga type deburring tool
Good quality bastard/second cut files (flat & half round)
Dead blow hammer
A bag of rags
Some bins for swarf

 

[David S]

If I were starting out again and looking for a hacksaw I would go for the high tension kind. Only recently switched to high tension and threw the other one out. Awesome difference for me.

David

 

[owl]

Add to the above list a variety of chemicals, acidulated copper sulfate solution for fine marking on steel, acetone and alcohol for cleaning, acid pickle, sodium hydroxide for aluminum, something to smoke parts with (mineral spirits lamp or carbide come to mind) lapping compound, shellac to hold small parts, superglue, etc.

 

[Dave Paine]

If I were starting out again and looking for a hacksaw I would go for the high tension kind. Only recently switched to high tension and threw the other one out. Awesome difference for me.

First time reading of the name "high tension hacksaw". My hacksaw is decades old. I do have a screw which tensions the blade. I do not want to hijack this thread, but I am interested in what makes a high tension hacksaw different than others.

 

[David S]

Hi Dave,
Most of the entry hacksaws have a wing nut kind of tensioner to hold the blade, but the blade often deflects as you use it and the cut can be less than straight. With a high tension version there is a long handle type of deal that you can crank around about 12 times to put a lot of tension on the blade, so that it "sings" when you pluck it.

David

 

[mikey]

@Dave Paine, I'm with David - buy a high tension hacksaw. They have a much heavier duty frame with a blade tensioning system that allows far more tension to be put on the blade. That keeps the blade taut and straight in the cut, which helps it to cut more effectively. I have three of these things, one Starrett and two Lenox saws, and I prefer the Lenox version. Each of my saws has a different tooth count so I can switch saws depending on the thickness of the material; all are Lenox bi-metal blades. Coupled with some wax stick lubricant, these saws cut really well and certainly better than the old type you're describing. They are worth their moderate cost.

 

[Aaron_W]

On the safety side of things, I've added a smoke detector to the basement. I'm careful, but like the added piece of mind just in case something got going after I went upstairs. It is located where we can hear it upstairs unless it is really noisy.

• You need a small brass hammer to hit punches with - make your own.

Do you have a link to a good description of making one of these, or even what makes for a good brass hammer? Not that it would be particularly hard to make a hammer (weighted head on a stick), but it could be hard to make a good hammer.

 

[Aukai]

A couple of things that I'm glad I have:
Transfer punch set
A good quality tap & die set not the box store type
Thread chaser set
Buy the cheap milling bits before you get the expensive ones, you'll learn the sounds, and vibrations, so the expensive ones live.
I bought a baton magnet for swarf that gets used a lot.

 

[David S]

Aaron, I work on clock repair stuff and made a small brass hammer, from an inexpensive set of buck store screw drivers. The shaft was perfect Ø for a metric thread with a die. For the ball, made a counter bore and trapped a steel ball bearing.



David