It was a good idea

I drilled a center hole in the back splash mounts that attach the cable zip ties, you can put a little sealant on the through bolt if you are worried about it. I have tried the adhesive back 3M sticky cable holders, they all failed in an oil environment over time.
 
Nez I'm sure you got your cables already mounted the way you want already but here's how I installed my DROs to hide the cables the best I could in case they might give you some ideas.

BTW carpet tape is also a pretty good & strong double sided tape when you need something thinner. It's fabric reinforced, pretty inexpensive too & can also find it at hardware stores. I always keep a roll or 2 handy for other uses.

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Mill
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Nez I'm sure you got your cables already mounted the way you want already but here's how I installed my DROs to hide the cables the best I could in case they might give you some ideas.

BTW carpet tape is also a pretty good & strong double sided tape when you need something thinner. It's fabric reinforced, pretty inexpensive too & can also find it at hardware stores. I always keep a roll or 2 handy for other uses.

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Mill
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Thank you.

Routing the cable on the side of the electrical control box and under was my first thought, then found out one of the cables is just too short for the carriage to go all the way back against the TS. The other cable is 6 ft too dang long.

I do like those cable hangers you have on the DRO arm. Will get some of those.
 
Bamban, you've done such a nice job of keeping everything sanitary and tidy, what's keeping you from shortening the cable that is 6 ft too long and lengthening the one that is too short? It's just sleeved wire. The long one is easy, and you could splice and shrink boot the housing on the short wire I'm sure.
 
I drilled my back splash and attached cable ties with the mounting holes, they'll never come off. A couple of holes in the back splash is not going to be the end of the world, after all it doesn't have to hold liquid. Besides that, with all the cutting fluids splashing around that back splash will do exactly as it was designed for " splashes " so its going to get dirty. . Those hangers or pads were originally designed for the inside of electrical control enclosures for wire control, not really meant for an environment that may be subject to liquids. No manner how good the stick now, over time they will detach, more work in the future to replace or re secure them.
 
Bamban, you've done such a nice job of keeping everything sanitary and tidy, what's keeping you from shortening the cable that is 6 ft too long and lengthening the one that is too short? It's just sleeved wire. The long one is easy, and you could splice and shrink boot the housing on the short wire I'm sure.

The scales were factory installed, not sure I want to rewire the D9 connector nor the read head.

Someone suggested magnets, somehow I have one that is 140 pound rated, I used it to mock up where the both cables should hang with enough clearance not to drag on edge of the pan, and long enough to go on both extremes of the carriage travel.

I may forgo the tape approach at the moment and buy 4 more or so magnets and arrange the cables to where I am satisfied.

Darkzero, I tried one more time to route the cables down the side and bottom and along the bottom of the backsplash, that is no go. The cross slide cable is just too short.

Side note: This dang 140 pound magnet hanger is a royal pain to move around, have to slide it to the edge then pull on one side.

Disregard the mess on the pan, that's left over from chambering a Bartlein 30 cal 10T barrel to 308 for AR 10 application.

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Temporary till I get the magnets.

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