Keyless Chuck?

RVJimD

RVJimD

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I don't yet have a keyless chuck. Are there pros and cons to the wide variety and price between them? And, I will be using it primarily in the lathe tailstock, so should I be going with the style that is integrated with the shank or get a MT to JT adapter shank style. I already have a MT3 to JT33 shank that I use with my keyed chuck. One thing that I don't understand is the tang on my adapter shank. It leaves my tailstock spindle extended to 1" minimum. Is the tang necessary to eject the shank or would I be able to get a shank without the tang and recover the "missing inch"? What function does the tang provide? The tailstock is on my grizzly g0752 lathe.

Thanks for the help.

Jim
 
I fit the tang of mine ages ago. However when I moved to a new lathe the tailstock would not retreat enough to eject the drill combination. I just drilled and tapped the back of the taper and inserted a grub screw, this way I can adjust just where the taper ejects.
 
Keyless chucks are quicker to load. They also grip a bit more securely, having a self tightening feature. If you plan to rotate them counterclockwise, they do not work well as the chuck loosens. They have a longer body so they protrude further from your arbor. You can't lose the key, lol.

You can't go wrong with Albrecht chuck, IMHO. However I have had several Grizzly 1/2" keyless chuck and all have had .001" TIR or less. (I may just be lucky, lol).

I ground the tang off my M3 adapter. Take a careful measurement of where the chuck unseats first and determine how much to remove. If you do take too much, you can epoxy a shim on the adapter. Mine is set up to eject at .020" before the end of travel and it works fine.
 
My understanding was that the tang was part of a keying system to prevent a tool form slipping when Morse taper shanks were fairly common on drill bits. It has no use in the tailstock of my lathe. Some larger lathes may have a keying socket; I have not seen one on any lathe that I have used.
 
Thanks for all the help, that clears things up a bunch!

Jim
 
When using a keyless chuck you shouldn't go above its rating. i.e. no turned down shank drills or hole saws. They will self tighten to the point you need a pipe wrench to loosen them. Don't ask how I know.
If your tailstock is keyed for the tang keep it. My Hardinge isn't and I'm always on pins and needles drilling with it in case it slips and galls the spindle.

Greg
 
I have a couple of keyless chucks laying around.:( Now if I could find te keys I would use them.:big grin:
 
I don't think Glacern tooling is made in the USA.
I wrote to Glacern and asked and they replied to call and discuss it.
 
Those Keyless chucks look OK from Glacern, but I am looking for one that goes to 3/4" with the Tang. MT2 Taper
Anyone know where to get one of those without breaking the bank?
 
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