Kitchen corner cabinet brackets

Did get something done on the brackets. I managed to hog out some material, forming the top of the bracket. The piece I am working on is wide enough to cut out 3 brackets. I will saw off the pieces once I make the basic shape. Flipped the workpiece over and was considering the radius in the design. Hope I have the ball mill that I thought I did.

Had a distraction this afternoon, it was having to mow the lawn. Today was unexpectedly better than predicted, so I wanted to mow the lawn before the poorer weather moves in. This time of year, if I don't mow weekly, the grass seems to be knee high within two weeks.

Think I will go down to the shop now and find that ball mill.
 
Managed to complete the basic shape of the bracket. Only had a 1/2" ball mill, so I adapted the design to use it. This piece will be cut into 3 brackets. Sorry about the image rotation, it's hard to get it right when posting from a phone.
PXL_20220601_020446981.jpg
Decided to leave the part that the shelf sits on a bit longer. I can always cut it off later.
 
Cut up another block for the other brackets. I'll make a second piece. That will give me 6 brackets total after cutting them apart.
Here are a couple of (poor) photos inside the cabinet.
PXL_20220601_151542474.jpgPXL_20220601_151558339.PORTRAIT.jpgPXL_20220601_151656657.jpg
You can see in the last photo that it is camming out.

I measured the hole depth and it is around 0.400" deep for most of the holes. However, the pins are only 0.240" long. Combined with the undersized shelf, this is the exact formula for a collapsing shelf. Believe me, I didn't get any of the cost savings that resulted from cheapening up on pin lengths nor undersizing the shelves. What I got was a poorly made, under performing product.

So I am fixing it.
 
The gaps too large and placement very bad so weight distribution on a shelf can cause problems.

Addition of screws will help avoid shelf moving, good luck

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tq60 said:
The gaps too large and placement very bad so weight distribution on a shelf can cause problems.

Addition of screws will help avoid shelf moving, good luck

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Which is why my brackets are much thicker to take up most of the gap. Agree with adding screws, it has to help.

Thanks for wishing me good luck, think I will need some.
 
A troubleshooter came by to take a look at the cabinets. Thought he was going to fix them. I was hoping too. I asked him, so what do the new clips look like? Was hoping they were the magic solution. He shows them to me, and I say, "they are the same as the old clips. Why do you think these will be any better? They don't address the real problem." Eventually, the guy agrees with me. I showed him my bracket that I made and thought they would work. The boss man talked to the fixit guy and wanted him to come back and drill more holes in my cabinet so he could use the same clips. Told the poor fixit guy, I don't want to additional drill holes in my cabinet, except as a last resort. Especially if they intend to use the same clips which don't work! To his credit the guy told me he'd drop by a place that has a lot of cabinet hardware and see if there might be something useful there. He also said, that so far, my brackets were looking like my best option.

So after all that, and sending the guy home, I made some pins today. Got 10 done, and an 11th for practice. Really only need 8, 4 for each shelf.
PXL_20220608_214216122.jpg
The pins are made of 1144. The dark part is unturned and measures 0.2495". The light part measures 0.245, give or take a thousandth. Thought I would practice pressing in the pin using the 11th pin. So I faced a piece of 6061 to 0.300" like the bracket and drilled a hole 1/32" under 1/4, and then 1/64" under a 1/4.

Then tried out my new and questionable reamer. It's a no go. Although sold as a 0.2490" reamer, it isn't. The black part of the pin is a slip fit to the hole, not interference! Remeasured the pin with my DigiMatic mic and it's still 0.2495". Hmm, lets measure the reamer. Well midway down the reamer, it measures 0.2495", umm that's bigger than the spec on the label. Let's measure the business end of the reamer. Gee, what do we have here? 0.2501" at the cutting tip. Nope, not going to work. Drat, have to return this. If they let me keep it, (because it isn't worth shipping back) I have to mark it somehow, so I won't use it again. It will just become stock for grinding into a tool. So I have to wait another week for a real reamer to show up.
 
It is a 1/4 reamer....0.2501

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tq60 said:
It is a 1/4 reamer....0.2501

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
It was listed as 0.2490". The label on the tube says: "Chucking Reamer Undersized 0.2490". But as you say, it is 0.2500 reamer, which is not what I ordered. Didn't need a 0.2500 reamer, as I have an Alvord Polk in that size, and it is on size.

Started the return of this incorrectly sized reamer...
 
Received a full refund on the reamer. Get to keep reamer - because it wasn't worth the cost for the vendor to ship it back, guess they know it is a steaming pile of...

Ordered an over under set of reamers. Hope the darn set is on size, this kind of fooling around is getting old.
 
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