Kurt DX6 for PM-1054TV but which one?

I just got a new DX6 on the scratch and dent, it does look perfect from every direction but I still have 001 jaw lift and still have to hammer my work down so not enough gained from my $50, 50 year old bridgeport vise and I also have a rough area in the screw when you are spinning it from end to end. Pretty bummed out with the purchase. I had visions of silky smooth and it pulling my work down tight on the parallels like I had read somewhere. If I had it to do again I would get a Tegara 660u, I think it is their newest version of draw close vs push close vise that has milled sides and can be clamped down on it's side. I may call Kurt tomorrow and see what they say.
 
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ErichKeane said:
One thing I never figured out... What do you mean by "workholder" included in the box?
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I have that same question! It was mentioned in some of the Amazon reviews and the manual online has a parts list that references it but says unhelpfully “not shown”.

Anyone know what it is?
 
Oh, yes! My bad, work stop. A few Amazon reviews mention it was omitted from the box shipped from Amazon, but on contacting Kurt they sent it.

Also, the Amazon picture shows the bolt on fixed jaw (what I understand now to be “revision A”) but some disappointed reviewers mention they received what sounds like “revision B” (single piece cast fixed jaw). At least one reviewer refers to what they got as “an older model” but it sounds like they got the newer revision B model.
 
jeremysf said:
Oh, yes! My bad, work stop. A few Amazon reviews mention it was omitted from the box shipped from Amazon, but on contacting Kurt they sent it.

Also, the Amazon picture shows the bolt on fixed jaw (what I understand now to be “revision A”) but some disappointed reviewers mention they received what sounds like “revision B” (single piece cast fixed jaw). At least one reviewer refers to what they got as “an older model” but it sounds like they got the newer revision B model.
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I don't think there is any reason to care about Revision A vs B. So whatever you get is probably fine.

The 'work stop' is sometimes shipped in a baggie, and sometimes attached to the holder on the front of the vise on the holder next to the handle.

You can see how it works attached to the jaw in pic-6 here: https://www.penntoolco.com/kurt-dx6-crossover-vise-dx6/ ("Includes groovelock ...").

You can see where it is stored here:
https://imgur.com/a/Kua2mDX
to the right of the hex.

FWIW, I find mine worthless. The allen screw head is too small to tighten enough to 'stop' before torquing out/spinning. Also, it is pretty small/easy to lose/fiddly. I find normal work-stops like this one https://www.penntoolco.com/spi-work-stop-for-machine-vise-jaw-width-3-4-70-950-1/ way more useful.
 
You can see it attached to the bearing support to the right of the handle hex pivot point. It is tiny but I suppose it can be effective when and if you need a vise stop on top of the fixed jaw.
65204116284__854E3243-4333-485D-91B9-FFFAA00DA53F.fullsizerender.jpg
 
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FWIW, I find mine worthless. The Allan screw head is too small to tighten enough to 'stop' before torquing out/spinning. Also, it is pretty small/easy to lose/fiddly.
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I thought that the "vice stop" was used as only a lateral positional reference in the fixed jaw slot, which you can see in the picture above. That's how I use it and it works great; there is no force against it and it doesn't twist out, because you just gently place the part to be held against it before tightening the vice. Very repeatable for machining multiple parts.
 
kb58 said:
I thought that the "vice stop" was used as only a lateral positional reference in the fixed jaw slot, which you can see in the picture above. That's how I use it and it works great; there is no force against it and it doesn't twist out, because you just gently place the part to be held against it before tightening the vice. Very repeatable for machining multiple parts.
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That is exactly how it is used. My problem with it is the little allen head bolt on it tends to cam-out (or slip?) on my wrench before it tightens enough to not move with a slight tap. When I place things against a stop, I try to give it a slight 'tap' against the stop (just enough to make noise!) to make sure it is touching. I can't tell you how many times I've tried to be overly gentle just to find out I'm 5 thou off!
 
Ridetoeat said:
I just got a new DX6 on the scratch and dent, it does look perfect from every direction but I still have 001 jaw lift and still have to hammer my work down...
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I've never seen a machinist not tap down their work in a vice.
 
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