Lanolin and ??? (as rust preventer)

Not to burden with yet another formula, but I've been inspired by this thread to try my own recipe. It works pretty well : In a double boiler (to control temperature) mix (by volume) three parts beeswax, two parts anhydrous lanolin (tip: it's gooey, leave in the fridge a while and it solidifies) , one part way oil (with tackifier). Remove from heat to avoid any chance of spillage of flammable material and add one part gum spirits of turpentine (said to be best solvent for beeswax, which doesn't like mineral spirits) and one-half part DOT3 brake fluid (for the glycol ethers recommended by Pontiac428, earlier). Let cool and then thin with more turpentine to suit your purpose. Applied to metal surfaces (thin application is all you need) it solidifies as it dries (a day or two) and then you can gently wipe any excess off. Makes a non-sticky, polished and pleasant coating. Also worked wonders on the dried-out wooden handles of an antique bench plane I tried it on. I have not had this long enough to report it's long-term rust proofing but the coating left seems to be quite durable.
 
*GADS* I just can't seem to win against rust around here at all.
Need to get off my arse and make up my batch of lanolin today.

Been re-arranging the shop and have been totally re-doing the contents of the drawers in my budget Vidmars.
Can not come up with a 'proper' drawer liner.
I had some of the large size cushioned drawer liner material in several and if any metal was resting on it, it has stained in an ugly spotted pattern.
I had cardboard in one drawer and thought that might work better so I re-did (15) or so drawers with cardboard.
And then I went to clean out a drawer that has cardboard and that had parallels and such in it and discovered that fails also...
I've got some thin rubber membrane, but I'm not sure if that would do any better.
Perhaps seal the drawers and do an oil bath in them? :grin:

These were laying flat on the cardboard. Haven't used them in over a year more than likely.
Sickened me when I went to pull them out.
0501201455__R.jpg
 
@middle.road, what a bummer! Lanolin mix will do well, but I'm thinking using VCI paper as drawer liners is a logical next step for you. VCI vapor stays trapped in drawers, so while not ideal like a ziploc, it should last a while and it's cheap.
 
Rather than messing with home brews, I use a couple of Rattle Can products. The first is CRC Lanocote which as the name suggests is a lanolin spray. It works well but leaves a noticeable residue on the surface.

The second is a Bostik product that was called Top Cote but is now called Glide Coat
https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220...ywords=bostik+glidecoat&qid=1588449528&sr=8-1
This stuff is the bees knees as far as I am concerned and works outstandingly well on an cast iron machinery surfaces. Simply spray it on lightly wait a few seconds for it to go cloudy and then rub it with a soft cloth. As the Product Data sheet says it:
  • Eliminates “hang-ups” on sliding surfaces.
  • Protects all tools and equipment from rust.
  • Up to 30% slicker than paste wax.
  • Prevents rust 5 times (5x) longer than paste wax or silicone.
  • Easier and quicker to apply than paste wax.
  • Lasts three times (3x) longer than paste wax.
  • Contains no silicone or petroleum oil.
  • Will not stain wood or interfere with glues or finishes.
  • Perfect for table saw beds, drill presses,
  • lathes, planers, band saws, miters, panel saws, and all hand tools.
  • Environmentally safer aerosol, no CFC’s or ODC's
 
For exposed metal i use gear oil or chainsaw bar oil in the mix. Your application id use it with marvel mystery oil. For liner id use flannel and spray it with mystery oil. And id lay one on top if not used daily . Even then i may if any rust pops up.
 
I made up a batch of the lanolin, mineral spirits and ATF recipe that Bob K gave. Really easy to make and pretty cheap, I've got about 1/2 gallon made up, at a total cost of about $30 ($12 for the lanolin, $4 for a quart of ATF and around $15 for a gallon of mineral spirits, and I have at least 1/2 gallon of mineral spirits left over).
I bought 2 empty metal 1 qt paint cans, split my 8oz of lanolin between them, then set the paint can in a pan of hot water for a couple minutes to melt the lanolin, then added 20oz of mineral spirits and 4 oz of ATF, put on the lid a swished it around. It is easily applied with a brush.

Brushed on, after about 24 hours it just leaves a very light oily residue. From the can it is thin enough to easily get into cracks and crevices.

I didn't have much of a rust problem to start with, so I can't say how it works in an area where rust is a serious problem.
 
I have one other recommendation. Fresh step crystals kitty liter in a small paper envelope. It is super cheap and will absorb water to keep the humidity low. I store all my stuff with it.
Robert
 
For my money I continue to use Lanox MX4, comes in a pressure spray can or a 0.5Lt. manual squirt bottle, 4 Lt bottle and larger drums I find any thing I squirt it on stays protected, for many months even stuff I store outside.

On lathe bed ways It wipes of quite easily and then, just lube as normal.I also use it's companion product Inox MX3. Sort of like a WD40 or CRC only much much better Much easier than trying to make your own.

I have a few friends who use both on fishing boats both commercial and private. Another friend who runs a marine service center for commercial and private fishing boats, he uses it in the workshop and actually gives a bottle to each customer.

The products are available in the US at least in the SE corner.

Candan Industries USA LLC

Green Cove Springs, FL, USA

PS I have no connection with this business, just trying to be helpful.

Downunder Bob.
 
Fluid Film works great. I bought one can over two years ago and am only just now getting close to empty. A little expensive but easy to use - and amortized over 2+ years, to me it's worth it.

Regards
 
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