Large Wooden Crate

[12bolts]

MT 4 in the tailstock is probably better. Yes you may need a couple of MT3-4 sleeves but its much easier to bush tooling up rather than down. Gets awkward trying to get a MT4-3 to suit.

Cheers Phil

 

[Jamespvill]

The easiest way to fix that is to follow the wires from the switch on the op-rod that go into the electrical panel and swap the two switch wires. It's a two-way switch and there are three wires. One is either black or grey for the neutral wire. Switch the position of the other two wires on the terminal panel.


Ray

Got it swapped around, now its working like a champ. I felt like I was defusing a bomb...cut the red one! Thanks Ray!

 

[Jamespvill]

MT 4 in the tailstock is probably better. Yes you may need a couple of MT3-4 sleeves but its much easier to bush tooling up rather than down. Gets awkward trying to get a MT4-3 to suit.

Cheers Phil

I figure MT4 is more rigid anyways. Now my question is do I attempt to knock the MT3 arbor out of my drill chuck and get an MT4 arbor for it or do I just use a bushing? I've heard horror stories about how hard it is to get Jacob tapers out.

I just smacked the arbor and taper together days before the lathe got here and it has never been used if that makes any difference.

 

[JimDawson]

I figure MT4 is more rigid anyways. Now my question is do I attempt to knock the MT3 arbor out of my drill chuck and get an MT4 arbor for it or do I just use a bushing? I've heard horror stories about how hard it is to get Jacob tapers out.

I just smacked the arbor and taper together days before the lathe got here and it has never been used if that makes any difference.

Get a set of chuck removal wedges. It will come right off. May as well order them at the same time you order the MT4 to MT3 bushings. The bushings should work just fine also, I have always had a MT3 to MT2 on my tailstock chuck. Have never taken it off.

 

[AlanR]

I've heard horror stories about how hard it is to get Jacob tapers out.

Some drill chucks have a thru hole, just use a punch or a piece of stock to knock it out. Have a look.

 

[coolidge]

The easiest way to fix that is to follow the wires from the switch on the op-rod that go into the electrical panel and swap the two switch wires. It's a two-way switch and there are three wires. One is either black or grey for the neutral wire. Switch the position of the other two wires on the terminal panel.


Ray

That's funny my brother who's been a machinist for like 25 years complained because my G4003G wasn't wired for down = reverse.

 

[Jamespvill]

Get a set of chuck removal wedges. It will come right off. May as well order them at the same time you order the MT4 to MT3 bushings. The bushings should work just fine also, I have always had a MT3 to MT2 on my tailstock chuck. Have never taken it off.

Just ordered a set, thanks for the info. I didn't even know those existed!

 

[Jamespvill]

That's funny my brother who's been a machinist for like 25 years complained because my G4003G wasn't wired for down = reverse.

Haha! I remember reading in a book somewhere...It may have been Tom Lipton's Sink or Swim, that it's important to keep things up to the "standard" otherwise you might find yourself crashing a machine when fumbling with a machine that your not familiar with.

 

[Ray C]

That's funny my brother who's been a machinist for like 25 years complained because my G4003G wasn't wired for down = reverse.

I've always been confused by this and don't know if there is any standard. My theory (and the way my machines are setup) is to have the handle mimic the rotation of the chuck from the perspective of standing in front of it. The chuck spins from the top, toward you then, down which is the same motion as when pushing the handle down to start the chuck for normal cutting.

I'll try to find-out if there is a standard convention -but if there is and if it's different from what I have, I probably won't change mine as I'll no-doubt burn-up a couple inserts trying to cut backward.


Ray

 

[Marco Bernardini]

I've always been confused by this and don't know if there is any standard. My theory (and the way my machines are setup) is to have the handle mimic the rotation of the chuck from the perspective of standing in front of it. The chuck spins from the top, toward you then, down which is the same motion as when pushing the handle down to start the chuck for normal cutting.

I'll try to find-out if there is a standard convention -but if there is and if it's different from what I have, I probably won't change mine as I'll no-doubt burn-up a couple inserts trying to cut backward.


Ray

If I get it correctly, the lathe chuck turn in the same sense of the drill press chuck: clockwise if you look at it from the top of the drill (or from behind the motor of the lathe), counterclockwise if you look at it from the (dangerous) point of view of the piece, below the chuck. The latter is the same view you can have from a lathe tailstock.
And this has a sense: how it would be possible to swap the drill bits between different machines, otherwise?