Lathe Face Plate

[rwdenney]

If you are going to machine a sleeve, you’ll need this info:



The reference surface on the screw-on faceplate (and on chuck adapters) is where the adapter seats closest to the headstock bearing. Also, make sure to bore the G diameter closely—that close fit prevents runout from thread clearance.

The face side of the plate should fit UNDER the flange on the sleeve, so that unscrewing the plate removes the sleeve. That may mean making a sleeve with a face flange that will provide room for your plates, or machining a step in the faceplate to accommodate the sleeve flange.

Rick “contemplating the same project” Denney

 

[plongson]

Great information!! THANKS so much for taking the time to post it here. I'm just getting started on this project so the timing is perfect. Your notes addressed some issues I had not thought of...again, awesome!

Paul

 

[zippyslug31]

I was scrounging around at our steel yard and found an 8" round steel blank 5/8" thick. I bought it and I'm gonna make my own face plate for the lathe. I have lots of scrap slugs and I'm planning on welding one on the back, boring and threading 2 3/8" 6 tpi... and machine the whole thing true.

But never having or used a face plate/dog plate, how far should the face of the plate protrude from the threads of the spindle? This will determine how thick the slug on the back will be.

ALSO...
It's becoming difficult to impossible to locate a spindle sleeve for this machine. I'm thinking about machining a plug with the required taper for the spindle end and turn a center on the other end...and not worry about having a MT #3 center.

This is all pretty ambitious for me but it's winter and the shop is warm...LOL Plus all I have to lose is time and scrap. I always have a good time puttering in the shop.

Any help is appreciated!

Paul

Just curious what you had to pay for such a chunk?
I'm new to the hobby and have been slowly picking up random stock as I stumble over it. This would be a nice find, but curious if a scrapyard has better prices than some of the sources that I've been going thru (mainly scrap off Fleabay).
I know it will vary, and I'm not in your area, but still curious.

 

[mmcmdl]

I call a large plate that you can bolt parts to a face plate. I call a small plate for turning on centers a dog drive plate. They're two different tools.

A true face plate is a large piece of aluminum 2" thick or more mounted onto the slotted " steel faceplate " . The aluminum is drilled and tapped thruout the entire plate . Different diameters and angles . The aluminum can be faced for operations needing zero perpendicular runout . Your part can be tapped in to achieve zero runout to a specific feature , such as a bore on a casting . 45 years of machining , never used a steel slotted plate or a drive dog plate .

 

[plongson]

My steel yard has large totes of good assorted scrap that are left overs from production runs from big shops. I damn sure don't need 20' lengths but get emotional when I see short, fat odds and ends.

He gets $2.50 per pound for scrap steel, not sure about aluminum but he has that too. Next time I'm there I'm gonna take a bucket and scrounge up some good stuff...

 

[tq60]

Bore and thread the "adaptor" first.

Make more than one just because.

Then place it on the spindle and get it perfect.

Once perfect turn the outside and make the end true.

Next place the face plate part in something that can hols it and bore the center to fit the adaptor.

Weld in place then finish the rest.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[plongson]

rwdenney...Making progress...Your spindle information is priceless! Thanks again.

I had to make essentially a "go no-go" for the spindle threads for the next step and got the plate ready to move on...

 

[plongson]

Finished the plate and center with a .050"/in taper for the spindle adapter. I also found 6 assorted old school dogs on Ebay for $45...Thanks for the precise information for my 16" SBL...