Little Lathe Improvement.

[tmarks11]

You could just turn it in place to get a concentric outer diameter.

The downside is that you will be add a balance issue, since you would be taking off up to 0.120" off one side when you turn the plate. Of course, since this is just a rough casting, it might not be balanced to begin with, so maybe it doesn't matter.

You could always drill some MORE holes in the plate to balance it when you are done.

Since usually a faceplate is used to turn oddly shaped chucks of metal that won't fit into a chuck, and since said chunks of metal tend to be wildly, scarily unbalanced, the balance issue probably wouldn't matter.

Or... you cut rotate the plate by 30 degrees and drill 3 MORE holes... maybe you will be closer to concentric alignment next time.... And if those don't quite work, then rotate it by 15 more degrees and drill 3 more holes... And if this doesn't work, then look for a good deal on a 12x36 lathe that has a D1-4 or D1-5 style cam-lock spindle, so you don't have to go through this again...

And when you are all done, throw the faceplate in the bottom drawer of your toolbox, where it will sit until you need it next year. Most of the work I do fits in a 3 jaw, 4 jaw, or 5C collet chuck.

 

[LX Kid]

I "got-r-done" my arbor idea worked. No wobble, vibration and seems to be good to go. I had to enlarge one threaded hole on one side so the bolt would fit in and had to take about .015" off the outer circumference. Grizzly did a lot of good things, in customer support, for others but they failed me.

 

[LX Kid]

After smashing my fingers trying to put the 4-jaw chuck on the spindle, and it rolling off on the back and on to the floor, I figured there has to be a better way to hold that sucker up so it can be bolted on. I saw this idea on YouBoob and is probably done already by a lot of people. Screwed three pieces of 3/4" plywood together and cut out a radius of the chuck. Works good and a lot easier to bolt it up, "Should I ever need to!" Not so "purdy" but functional. Maybe a little paint would help! LoL

 

[LX Kid]

Here's my lead screw swarf cover that moves with carriage. It's about seven inches long of thin aluminum. I added a strong earth magnet under the rack to stop the carriage from crashing the cover into the lead screw gearbox. Not the strongest metal but if it works well I will use a thicker aluminum. I'll use it awhile and see how durable it is. Still thinking that I'll add a plate across the ways to protect them.

 

[LX Kid]

Used my "chunk of wood" today to see how it might work out as a table riser. Came out not to bad but have to find a couple more t-nuts on the opposing corners to pull it down flush with the table. It already seems ok but I'll leave it on the table pulled down tight for several days to take any warpage out. This will work for any roughing I may need and them go over to my mill for any accuracy needed. "Bubba'a back in town!"

 

[LX Kid]

My only "Kurt Style" machinist vise is bolted down and trammed on my mill and don't want to remove it. It's really a pain to align it every time. Maybe a 4" vice is in my future but right now I don't need it cause I haven't a project yet! Gotta find a project and quite playing with improving my equipment. "Maybe a SS wallet to protect all my credit cards would be a challenge!" LoL

 

[LX Kid]

After testing the very thin aluminum swarf shield I decided to make a thicker one. The thinner one seemed to work very well so I made another more durable one.

 

[LX Kid]

All good idea's of mine seem to have a flaw in the end. I needed to drill with the tail stock and found that I'm unable to get close enough to the chuck with the shield in place. Sooo I have to remove the shield to do any drilling. (Hassel!)

 

[turnitupper]

Get rid of the screw and use Neo. magnets to hold the shield in place. The ones with mounting holes afford solid fixing.
Then just rip the little bugger off and stick it to your lathe anywhere out of the way until you need it again.
John.

 

[LX Kid]

Get rid of the screw and use Neo. magnets to hold the shield in place. The ones with mounting holes afford solid fixing. Then just rip the little bugger off and stick it to your lathe anywhere out of the way until you need it again. John.

Now that sounds like a very good idea to me. Even though it's only one screw to remove the shield I like the idea of magnets. I'll take a look for some magnets that have a hole in them. Thanks for that idea!