Llambrich drill chucks?

Not many keyless chuck that would go that big, and not recommended to use one for that size. The runout when you get to that size as well as the forces and holding power is a problem at 3/4". I have two of the Llambrich's chucks with integral shanks and have been very happy with them, but the largest size is 5/8". On the rare occasion that I need to hold a drill or tap larger than that size, I use an inexpensive Z-Live 3/4" keyed drill chuck, there is probably little value in getting a better chuck that large, although I wouldn't mind having an older Jacobs 18N in good condition. The older Jacobs chucks may be rebuildable, but parts are not readily available and expensive. On the lathe, any drilling above 1/2" I use MT2/MT3 drills, and on the mill I have a set of S&D drills to 1" with reduced shanks. I almost never use them, and when I did in a keyless chuck they broke the chuck. Better to use annular hole cutters then larger drills in a mill with a chuck.

On the one keyless Llambrich's chuck, it holds regular drills without slipping with hand tightening, but for tapping and occasional end mill use I always tighten it with the key to increase the holding power.

This may be worth considering LLAMBRICH L40120B:
 
Not many keyless chuck that would go that big, and not recommended to use one for that size. The runout when you get to that size as well as the forces and holding power is a problem at 3/4". I have two of the Llambrich's chucks with integral shanks and have been very happy with them, but the largest size is 5/8". On the rare occasion that I need to hold a drill or tap larger than that size, I use an inexpensive Z-Live 3/4" keyed drill chuck, there is probably little value in getting a better chuck that large, although I wouldn't mind having an older Jacobs 18N in good condition. The older Jacobs chucks may be rebuildable, but parts are not readily available and expensive. On the lathe, any drilling above 1/2" I use MT2/MT3 drills, and on the mill I have a set of S&D drills to 1" with reduced shanks. I almost never use them, and when I did in a keyless chuck they broke the chuck. Better to use annular hole cutters then larger drills in a mill with a chuck.

On the one keyless Llambrich's chuck, it holds regular drills without slipping with hand tightening, but for tapping and occasional end mill use I always tighten it with the key to increase the holding power.

This may be worth considering LLAMBRICH L40120B:
That is the exact Llambrich I posted earlier. It is listed wrong. It's not a ball bearing chuck. I sent a message to the seller to confirm. Glad I didn't pull the trigger before ordering.
 
Missed the plain bearing, do not always believe what is posted. Agree, much better solution to use an ER40 collet system, that is what I use from my lathe, the mill I have both ER32 and ER40. Shar's higher end ER collet holders have worked well and have minimal run out. You also loose a lot of height and rigidity using a chuck vs. collet system. Still, if you can find a nice 18N Jacobs chuck that hasn't been thrashed, nice to have. I have a 14N that is in great condition and minimal TIR, but pretty much use the Llambrich keyless chuck most of the time. Not a big fan of R8 collets, I use my ER32 for most everything above 1/2" in the mill. Have two 5/8" keyless chucks for the lathe, which helps with repetitive tasks with different drills.
 
I found a reasonably decent looking ued jacobs 18n for $150. The taper shank isn't in great shape and there is no apparent way to get the shank out. No place for a wedge to drive it off. Might be a challenge to fix it up.
 
What am I doing wrong? I have a collection of Albrechts from 1/8" up to about a half inch, Jacobs from tiny up to 20N, and a mix of cheaper imports keyed and keyless up to 3/4"...they all work fine on the mill, lathe and drill press. I have never observed any particular "accuracy" issues with any of them. I just. can't see spending a lot for an "ultra precision" chuck.
 
I found a reasonably decent looking ued jacobs 18n for $150. The taper shank isn't in great shape and there is no apparent way to get the shank out. No place for a wedge to drive it off. Might be a challenge to fix it up.

I recall drilling a hole from the interior of the chuck toward the taper. Then just punch it out.
 
What am I doing wrong? I have a collection of Albrechts from 1/8" up to about a half inch, Jacobs from tiny up to 20N, and a mix of cheaper imports keyed and keyless up to 3/4"...they all work fine on the mill, lathe and drill press. I have never observed any particular "accuracy" issues with any of them. I just. can't see spending a lot for an "ultra precision" chuck.
Uh....okay. I didn't say anything about ultra precision. I just want a nice chuck that takes 3/4" drill bits.
 
Pays to be patient. I just bought this for $25. Just have to pop the taper out and clean it up. 20240426_152624.jpg

The jaws are not sprung and the line on the contact point of each jaw is pristine.
 
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