Machinist Jacks

Also, why did your thread from behind? Purely for a better shot with the camera? Or is there another purpose?


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Hi Ben,
I threaded from behind with the lathe in reverse mainly because, as "7milesup" pointed out down below, I wanted to eliminate as much risk of crashing as possible. I was running the threading op at around 500 rpms so that I could keep the threads as cleanly formed as possible, so I had literally no margin for error. Hope this helps.
 
I am pretty sure that is a grooving tool.

He set it up that way because he threaded away from the shoulder of the piece by running the lathe in reverse, thus eliminating the risk of crashing.
Thanks for explaining 7milesup
 
I agree with being unsure about the grooving tool. It is common to utilize a grooving tool/parting tool interchangeably, but during my search, I too was unable to find one like the OP was using.

Threading away from chuck. No, if the lathe is run in reverse the tool needs to be upright. If the lathe is run forward and the tool is on the backside, then it would need to be flipped upside down.
Thanks 7milesup,
Correct again on running the lathe in reverse.
That insert is sold by Mesa Tool and works very well if you're interested. I believe Jim is still the owner, but I know he was planning on selling the business here a few months ago.
 
When I search for grooving tool, I can either find a parting tool or an Internal grooving tool. I can’t seem to find one like in the picture here.

I had wondered if it was for threading away from the chuck, but doesn’t that require the tool to also be upside down?


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Hi Ben,
So, running the lathe in reverse requires the tool be right side up if cutting on the back side. With that said, you could thread on the front side in reverse too, and this is where you would have to flip the insert upside down. I don't like threading this way because it keeps you from being able to see the insert/material contact and what is going on. There may be some weird op where this is necessary, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you didn't have another option. My preference is to thread away from the headstock at a higher rpm.
That setup has been very helpful for me in getting clean, well formed threads and also calming the anxiety of a possible crash when threading in.
 
Thanks for the explanation firemaker76. It makes sense that you can thread from behind with the spindle reversed. You mention threading at 500rpm. I knew that people generally thread at slower speeds to help with not crashing, but are you saying that higher rpm will give better threads?

I’ll take a look at Mesa tools and see if they do shipping to the uk.


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Generally speaking, threading at a higher speed will give cleaner threads, but finding the "sweet spot" is something that each person has to experiment with. There are many variables that play into threading such as material type, diameter, cutting tool type and size, DOC, thread pitch, tool stickout, threading between centers or not, rigidity of machine...the list goes on and on. The point is there is no one rule that gives the same results for everyone so you really have to use trial and error to you advantage. When you do find something that works really well for you, take pictures and notes and record those settings somewhere to refer back to. You will most definitely tweak things from there, but at least you'll have a solid starting point.

One disadvantage to threading at higher speeds (away from the chuck) is that your reaction time is severly reduced so you want to become very familiar with your machine. You will have to learn how to engage the lead screw and half-nut at the proper time on your thread dial, and each machine is set up differently so pay special attention to that. You can always adjust your speed up or down to your comfort level.
Again, this is only a technique you should use when threading away from the chuck. The most important thing is that whatever operation you're doing, just take your time and be safe doing it.
Hope this helps Ben.
 
Generally speaking, threading at a higher speed will give cleaner threads, but finding the "sweet spot" is something that each person has to experiment with. There are many variables that play into threading such as material type, diameter, cutting tool type and size, DOC, thread pitch, tool stickout, threading between centers or not, rigidity of machine...the list goes on and on. The point is there is no one rule that gives the same results for everyone so you really have to use trial and error to you advantage. When you do find something that works really well for you, take pictures and notes and record those settings somewhere to refer back to. You will most definitely tweak things from there, but at least you'll have a solid starting point.

One disadvantage to threading at higher speeds (away from the chuck) is that your reaction time is severly reduced so you want to become very familiar with your machine. You will have to learn how to engage the lead screw and half-nut at the proper time on your thread dial, and each machine is set up differently so pay special attention to that. You can always adjust your speed up or down to your comfort level.
Again, this is only a technique you should use when threading away from the chuck. The most important thing is that whatever operation you're doing, just take your time and be safe doing it.
Hope this helps Ben.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I recently got a new lathe with a QCGB making single point threading a whole lot more attainable. One of my first projects will be to try and copy your design here. I hope copying is the sincerest form of flattery and all that :)

I’ll post my results in my own thread when done.


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Thank you for the detailed explanation. I recently got a new lathe with a QCGB making single point threading a whole lot more attainable. One of my first projects will be to try and copy your design here. I hope copying is the sincerest form of flattery and all that :)

I’ll post my results in my own thread when done.


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Anytime Ben,
I actually settled on the design I used after looking at lots of other machinist's jacks, so I can't really claim it was my idea lol. One thing I've noticed on this forum is that everyone seems very willing to help, share and educate others, so I am more than willing to do the same if possible. I wish you the very best on your projects, and If I can help in any way, just let me know. Be safe.
 
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