My Precision Mathews PM1340GT Arrival

Here's my status with my new PM-1340GT:
- Matt shipped me a single-phase version, but just stuck the boxed-up three phase motor in with the shipment. That's why I had a third box on top of my crate. Nice of him to give me an extra motor, but what he told me was, "since I didn't have a three-phase version in stock, and I knew you were hooking up a VFD, I just sent you the single-phase version with the three phase motor". Cool, he gave me an extra motor. Now, I'm thinking: I could sell both these motors and install a nice vector-rated 2HP 3phase made-in-USA motor like the Marathon Black Max Y551 like Mark mentioned in this thread. Looking at the dimensions, I would have to re-fab the lower end of the back-splash to relieve it out to get the motor in there, but that could be done. My big question is, would it be worth it? Or should I just go ahead and stick that Taiwan-made 3 phase motor in there and press with the WJ200-015SF hookup like you guys? I'm sure it would be nice to have a POT dial on my control panel, and not worry about using it in full range. I'm also guessing this Black Max motor is a better quality unit too. ADVICE?

View attachment IMG_20151203_114522368_HDR.jpg View attachment IMG_20151203_191245746.jpg View attachment IMG_20151203_191306328.jpg View attachment IMG_20151204_215745322.jpg View attachment IMG_20151204_220605929.jpg View attachment IMG_20151204_223546773.jpg
 
Last edited:
I am using the factory 3-phase motor and have found no issues with it. But, I have no need of going 'full range' on the pot on the front panel as I use the geared head to put me in the ball-park rpm wise and use the pot to just fine tune. I seldom find the need to go below 40 or above 70 Hz, but that's just me.
 
Bill, thanks for the reply. I think I'll just press on with the factory 3 phase motor.

Incidentally, why are my pictures not embedding, but only showing up as a link?
 
RIO said:
My big question is, would it be worth it? Or should I just go ahead and stick that Taiwan-made 3 phase motor in there and press with the WJ200-015SF hookup like you guys? I'm sure it would be nice to have a POT dial on my control panel, and not worry about using it in full range. I'm also guessing this Black Max motor is a better quality unit too. ADVICE?
Click to expand...
Hi Rio, Glad your lathe arrived without incident.

Agree with Bill, stick with the stock motor, it works just fine and fits. I have never had the stock 3 phase motor loose RPM while turning or get anything past warm with continuous use with the WJ200. I usually use a wider speed range of 30-90Hz. If it ever needed replacement, probably would go with the Marathon E467, 145TTTN6835 which should not require any modifications to the back splash shield. Blackmax would require cutting off the encoder shaft and maybe trimming some of the fins, it is probably way excessive for a lathe. THe E467 is shorter (should fit directly), made for sever duty and has a 1000:1 continuous torque range (~ 0.06-60 Hz).
http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/MARATHON-E467.html
Mark
 
Last edited:
Great, Mark. . Your posts along with Bill and Mike are EXTREMELY helpful. I'm currently studying your wiring diagram to attempt to duplicate yours/Mike's Hitachi Wj-200 setup. Trying to decide how to integrate it all, and an electrical supply shopping list to complete all the mods, including how to run the others: DRO power, coolant system power, halogen light power. Also, what mods I want for the front panel: jog/POT dial. I like how mike did a fwd/rev for his jog, but still trying to figure how he wired it. It's probably in his schematic if I take the time to go back and look at it.

So, also, my picture uploads are not embedding in these posts, but only showing up as a link. Do you know why?

I had thought about giving up on ordering an upgraded USA-built motor until you posted this link to the Marathon E467. This model changes my mind.
Now, I think I'll order a Marathon E467 and sell the other two motors that came with the lathe. I'm sure the stock motor will work fine, but maybe I just want to know I have a little better USA-built motor running the machine. The stock three phase motor is sitting there in a box and I have to swap it out with the single phase motor anyway, which is the main reason I think I'll just order the Marathon. If the machine came with the 3 phase motor already mounted, I wouldn't mess with it, I'd just run it.

Besides, doing something different like installing the Marathon off the bat will give me a chance to contribute here, and tell you all how that goes, in case anybody ends up needing to swap a motor.
How much do you think I should sell these two stock motors for (the single phase I'm taking off, and the 3 phase motor that came with it)?

Thanks again, guys.
 
I have forward and reverse on my jog and love it for threading with a tap.
 
I would review the E467 dimensions to the stock motor in the box. Most likely the mounting holes and pulley shaft is different, the stock motor is a tight fit, and the stock 3 phase would be a drop in replacement. You might want to try it first, and then consider the E467 if you want more. It is a beast of a motor. You will be striping most the of the wiring and control box electronics from your lathe. I usually replace the stock switches/speed pot with metal 22mm ones from Automation Direct. The indicator power light needs to be a LED in most of the designs because of power draw. If you need a schematic, I can send you several variations depending on the features you want. One individual is using a joystick (momentary ON-OFF-ON momentary switch) for his For/Rev JOG. The JOG on the WJ200 needs two separate commands to work, so the VFD JOG input needs to be ON and a direction VFD input FOR or REV. A diode is needed using a single pole switch or use 2 pole switch to prevent the JOG input from activating (backfeed) when using the spindle FOR/REV commands. I use low voltage wiring to activate a coolant relay/contactor. Eventually planning to use a 24V solenoid to activate an air drip system that I am building. Some people use the stock transformer for the 24V incandescent light, otherwise one can use a separate 24VDC power supply. I replaced my bulb with a 12V Philips LED, very nice light without the heat.
 
I agree with Mark above. I too have the factory 3-phase motor and it has worked flawlessly thus far. I don't have my frequency range quite as wide spread as Mark though. I have mine set from 45-75 Hz. Basically +/-15 from standard 60Hz. I can run it slower if needs be momentarily but I don't want to run it too long at much lower frequency than that.

Congrats on the lathe and I hope to see some pictures of it soon.

Mike.
 
Thanks guys. I would not be attempting all this without your info from this forum and schematics from MARK and MIKE.
Since Matt just shipped me a complete single-phase lathe setup, then just stuck a 3 phase motor in a box and shipped with it, I have to do a motor / wiring swap anyway to convert to 3 phase. Therefore, just for the fun of it, I'm ordering the Marathon E467, and plan to sell the other two stock motors to pay for it. I studied the E467 specs, and my conclusions are: it will fit dimensionally for sure; I will need to buy a 7/8 shaft pulley for the motor (new belt too, while we're at it); the mounting holes MIGHT lineup, but if not, I'll drill new ones. I see no other down sides to putting this motor on the PM-1340GT, and I see potential benefits in many areas. In the end, the stock motor might have worked just as good, but I think I'll do this just for fun.

When I try to post pictures using "Upload a File", ALL IT DOES IS INSERT THE LINK. Is this because I'm new on the forum?

On the wiring:
I am trying to duplicate you guys as much as possible, and I have my EE - degree'd cousin here visiting from Ohio to help me. I do have the DRO and the coolant pump to power also, and I will for sure want to install the breaking resistor, since there is no foot brake with this machine. Other than that, mine should be mirror-image to yours.

I'll try to post pictures of my progress again, and see if I can get them to embed as a picture instead of just a link.


Lafe (RIO)

View attachment IMG_20151203_114522368_HDR.jpg
 
RIO said:
Thanks guys. I would not be attempting all this without your info from this forum and schematics from MARK and MIKE.
When I try to post pictures using "Upload a File", ALL IT DOES IS INSERT THE LINK. Is this because I'm new on the forum?


I'll try to post pictures of my progress again, and see if I can get them to embed as a picture instead of just a link.


Lafe (RIO)

View attachment 116106
Click to expand...

Thanks Lafe.

As far as pictures go, I am a bit different and don't like to simply add them as an attachment. I like to use a picture hosting format and then post them directly to the body of the message. Makes it much nicer for viewing and I think the picture quality is much better as well.

Mike.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top