Need info on slip joint for project

[schemer]

I am going to make a little adjustable device for a friend and I need to figure out the best or simplest joint in a threaded adjuster. I may need to make a quick drawing but maybe I can explain it good enough. Picture a bolt going through a nut that is welded onto a piece, but on the other end of the bolt, there is a square or rectangular piece with a hole in it connected (like a tie rod end) that can not turn when the bolt is turned or adjusted. What would be the best type of joint that would not allow any or minimal slop while allowing the end to float while the bolt was turned in or out. The end will be in a track or otherwise held from being allowed to turn.
Make sense?
Thanks,
schemer

 

[JimDawson]

Would something like this work? http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-joint-linkages/=vh8x7z

 

[schemer]

Would something like this work? http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-joint-linkages/=vh8x7z

No, here is a pic and the "?" is where I need the help. I think if I got the right bolt with a short flat head like a shoulder bolt, I could slot the side of the rectangle block and drop it in backwards, and just weld a nut on for the "head" of the modified bolt. Anyway, here is a pic.
Thanks,
schemer

 

[schemer]

I think I thought of an idea. Turn the threads off in the lathe to create a smooth bearing type surface, but leave a cap shape on the end. Then machine a hole in the block and a slot in the mill for the end "cap" to keep it from pulling out. That may be all I need but am open to suggestions.
Thanks,
schemer

 

[JimDawson]

I think you have it. That is a common way of doing what you want.

 

[Boswell]

I think I thought of an idea. Turn the threads off in the lathe to create a smooth bearing type surface, but leave a cap shape on the end. Then machine a hole in the block and a slot in the mill for the end "cap" to keep it from pulling out. That may be all I need but am open to suggestions.
Thanks,
schemer

a few things that are not clear. What is the tolerance for backlash? what kind of strength does the joint need? What is the tolerance to friction ?

I initially thought along similar lines to what you said above. Turn down the bolt to a smaller diameter near the end (but not at the end) fo the threaded portion of the bolt. Make a slotted hole in the slide to capture around the narrow part of the bold you just made. This would probably have a lot of backlash (at least compared to machine tools). You could also capture the end of the bolt is a ball-bearing race in some way if you need to reduce friction more.

 

[zmotorsports]

I have done a couple similar for adjustable components and on one used a piece of all-thread that threaded into a blind head collar that I then just double nutted on the other side of the block leaving just enough space for the all-thread and collar to spin without tightening or loosening up the components. For the top side I used the nut welded onto the end trick and another as a jam nut.

I did a rather light duty one that wouldn't see much stress or tension at all by simply putting a washer on the bolt and then drilling a roll-pin hole through the bolt. The roll-pin coming in contact with the washer is what exerted the minimum amount of force to move the block in either direction.

 

[schemer]

I think you have it. That is a common way of doing what you want.

Glad to hear I was on the right track. Sometimes talking about it makes me think better. Happens all the time. )

I think even a couple of "C" Clips may work now that I think of it.

 

[schemer]

a few things that are not clear. What is the tolerance for backlash? what kind of strength does the joint need? What is the tolerance to friction ?

I initially thought along similar lines to what you said above. Turn down the bolt to a smaller diameter near the end (but not at the end) fo the threaded portion of the bolt. Make a slotted hole in the slide to capture around the narrow part of the bold you just made. This would probably have a lot of backlash (at least compared to machine tools). You could also capture the end of the bolt is a ball-bearing race in some way if you need to reduce friction more.

It is just for a drill jig for woodworking so although the backlash needs to be minimal, there will be little stress as far as lateral forces. Just dial (2 of them) in and lock them down and drill some holes. Readjust to other sizes as needed.
Thanks,
schemer

 

[schemer]

I have done a couple similar for adjustable components and on one used a piece of all-thread that threaded into a blind head collar that I then just double nutted on the other side of the block leaving just enough space for the all-thread and collar to spin without tightening or loosening up the components. For the top side I used the nut welded onto the end trick and another as a jam nut.

I did a rather light duty one that wouldn't see much stress or tension at all by simply putting a washer on the bolt and then drilling a roll-pin hole through the bolt. The roll-pin coming in contact with the washer is what exerted the minimum amount of force to move the block in either direction.

Sounds interesting. I don't understand the "blind head collar" part. Do you have any pics? Would your ideas work for a drill guide jig?
Thanks,
schemer