Need info on slip joint for project

[zmotorsports]

Sounds interesting. I don't understand the "blind head collar" part. Do you have any pics? Would your ideas work for a drill guide jig?
Thanks,
schemer

I don't have any pics. I just made a collar with a step machined onto it. The step is what captured the one side of the sliding block, which the block was a piece of tubing (so hollow). It was threaded with a blind hole to tighten the all-thread into it. The collar protruded through the block just barely far enough so that a nut could be tightened down on it tightly thus allowing just enough clearance for the bolt the spin when adjusting.

Sorry I can't explain it better or have a picture.

 

[schemer]

I don't have any pics. I just made a collar with a step machined onto it. The step is what captured the one side of the sliding block, which the block was a piece of tubing (so hollow). It was threaded with a blind hole to tighten the all-thread into it. The collar protruded through the block just barely far enough so that a nut could be tightened down on it tightly thus allowing just enough clearance for the bolt the spin when adjusting.

Sorry I can't explain it better or have a picture.

That's fine...I think I know what you are saying. In my case I will have a drill bushing in the hole in the block so I cannot access anything through from the other side. But if I make a stepped collar like you say I could probably figure out a simple way to make that work. I may start simple and if it works, why complicate things.
Thanks,
schemer

 

[12bolts]

Is the load taken under compression or extension?

cheers Phil

 

[12bolts]

depending on the load direction you have a couple of choices


If its a direct load on the thread and no need for any pulling force then just put a little nub on the end of the bolt to locate it in the rectangle block.


If it needs to take an extension load I would drill and tap the adjusting bolt for a retaining screw inserted through the rectangle block.


Or you could weld the threaded rod to the rectangle block and use 2 jam nuts either side of a bridge piece to adjust for length

Cheers Phil

 

[kd4gij]

For what you are doing. Turn the threads off then cut a grove wide enough for a 6-32 or 8-32 set screw with the threads removed fron the tip. Just drill and tap the block.

 

[schemer]

depending on the load direction you have a couple of choices

View attachment 92568
If its a direct load on the thread and no need for any pulling force then just put a little nub on the end of the bolt to locate it in the rectangle block.

View attachment 92569
If it needs to take an extension load I would drill and tap the adjusting bolt for a retaining screw inserted through the rectangle block.

View attachment 92570
Or you could weld the threaded rod to the rectangle block and use 2 jam nuts either side of a bridge piece to adjust for length

Cheers Phil

Thanks for the added info Phil. From the choices above the second image looks like what I need. It needs to be easily adjustable but stay in place while drilling the holes into wood. I thought about that design and even have a sketch on my kitchen table but wasn't sure I wanted to drill through the block to tighten that screw. But with a socket cap screw the hole would be whatever size the head measured. And with proper depth control and loctite it may work just fine.
schemer

 

[schemer]

For what you are doing. Turn the threads off then cut a grove wide enough for a 6-32 or 8-32 set screw with the threads removed fron the tip. Just drill and tap the block.

Now that is a simple way of doing it. I will look into that. Even a couple of properly placed roll pins to line up with the groove would work.
Thanks,
schemer

 

[joshua43214]

For what you are doing. Turn the threads off then cut a grove wide enough for a 6-32 or 8-32 set screw with the threads removed fron the tip. Just drill and tap the block.

^^ THIS

You can use a larger set screw and turn the threads off the tip for a better fit, use two screws if you need more load. This is the best solution for a woodworking machine where dust always gets into the parts. Leave a few thou under the screw for dust clearance, use no lube.

If you must use a roll pin, make sure you tap the inside of it so you can extract the pin later. I would avoid the roll pin though.

-Josh

 

[schemer]

^^ THIS

You can use a larger set screw and turn the threads off the tip for a better fit, use two screws if you need more load. This is the best solution for a woodworking machine where dust always gets into the parts. Leave a few thou under the screw for dust clearance, use no lube.

If you must use a roll pin, make sure you tap the inside of it so you can extract the pin later. I would avoid the roll pin though.

-Josh

Sounds good to me but if I use roll pins I was going to use long thin ones and make it so they could be pushed/punched out like below.
Thanks,
schemer

 

[Bill C.]

Sounds good to me but if I use roll pins I was going to use long thin ones and make it so they could be pushed/punched out like below.
Thanks,
schemer

That is the only way to use rolled pins is to drill all the way through. Makes repair/replacement easier.