New PM-1236T Lathe has arrived

[mksj]

It is hard to get better than 0.0005" on a set-true 5C because the collet specs. usually have a TIR range greater than that. But good enough, and in general it should repeat with 4-5 ten thousandths. Deflection of 0.0005" is about what one would expect, I had a 1340GT and that was about the same. It is all relative, as there are many factors that effect the TIR.

 

[riveter]

It is hard to get better than 0.0005" on a set-true 5C because the collet specs. usually have a TIR range greater than that. But good enough, and in general it should repeat with 4-5 ten thousandths. Deflection of 0.0005" is about what one would expect, I had a 1340GT and that was about the same. It is all relative, as there are many factors that effect the TIR.

Once I get it on the stand and start making chips I can quit obsessing over inspecting. I'm slowly getting there. Thanks for your comments.

 

[riveter]

I fitted the BXA QCTP and a 5/8" tool. I set the cutter height to a dead center in the tailstock. The tool holder is stroked out. Notice the lock nut is fully at the top of the stud.

This is a 1/2" tool. I think I prefer this. I know there is no functional difference; its just a personal preference not to have the lock nut stroked out.

 

[riveter]

I built two wooden structures (8.5" high) to elevate the pallet above the crane legs. I have leveling feet and 4 ft. lifting straps on order. I am doing this installation alone, so it will be a slow process. I installed my PM-935 mill alone, so I think I can get it done. I think the biggest problem will be aligning the drip pan to the stand so it stays put while I lower the lathe. I talked to Charlie at P.M. and he said some people have used dowels with pointed ends. And the manual does mention dowels. They would stick up from beneath, keep the drip pan in place, and guide the lathe down.

 

[skcncx]

I fitted the BXA QCTP and a 5/8" tool. I set the cutter height to a dead center in the tailstock. The tool holder is stroked out. Notice the lock nut is fully at the top of the stud.

This is a 1/2" tool. I think I prefer this. I know there is no functional difference; its just a personal preference not to have the lock nut stroked out.

Would an AXA be a better fit? Not sure if you would get it any lower though.

I ordered same lathe and toolpost from PM (waiting on it)... they say the BXA is the right fit, but seems like you should have more margin above and below. I was considering their BXA master turning/boring tool set, but it's all 5/8" tooling except a 1/2" and 3/4" boring bar.

 

[mksj]

I would stick with BXA, some of the holders will vary as to the thickness of the bottom and top of the holder. There is more options with 5/8" tool holders if using inserts.

Lifting the lathe, I recommend going through the ways with a strap, or consider a D-ring lift point. I notched the D-Ring mounting plates so they lock into the ways and then padded them with sheet neoprene rubber. The through bolt/nut was high tensile. Add some jacking straps to level the lathe along the Z axis. Make sure to add sealant around all the bolt holes, use either automotive sealants or a butyl based type, standard silicone breaks down with oil over time.

Be very careful of the tonage setting on the engine hoist, in the first picture I used the 1/2 ton to lift it and then the 1/4T only to position it to the holes. I only had a 1T hoist, on the second lift I had a 2T and more reach, this was also on the longer 1340GT. With a D-RIng I was able to get closer to the headstock end. Make sure you lock the tailstock so it cannot move.

 

[davidpbest]

I fitted the BXA QCTP and a 5/8" tool. I set the cutter height to a dead center in the tailstock. The tool holder is stroked out. Notice the lock nut is fully at the top of the stud.
View attachment 417129
This is a 1/2" tool. I think I prefer this. I know there is no functional difference; its just a personal preference not to have the lock nut stroked out.
View attachment 417130

The XL version of that BXA tool holder lowers the bottom ledge the tool rests on by 0.125”. The part number will be 250-201XL. It’s sized specifically to accept 3/4” shanked tools by simply lowering the bottom ledge. PM sells them as do several others.

Colton Industrial Tools 97202 | BXA #1 XL Extra Capacity (3/4") Turning & Facing Quick Change Tool Holder 250-201XL With Upgraded ZiN Coated Hardware

We distribute top-quality industrial tools and machine shop supplies at the best prices. View our collection of CNC machinist supplies and tooling packages.

allindustrial.com

 

[Ischgl99]

Would an AXA be a better fit? Not sure if you would get it any lower though.

I ordered same lathe and toolpost from PM (waiting on it)... they say the BXA is the right fit, but seems like you should have more margin above and below. I was considering their BXA master turning/boring tool set, but it's all 5/8" tooling except a 1/2" and 3/4" boring bar.

I use an AXA size tool post on my 1236T because I already had it, it seems like the right size for the lathe and works well, but if buying new I would probably go with BXA. The BXA will have more choices for toolholders without modifying them, and the parting tool selection is larger and more rigid. With a BXA, you could probably turn a toolholder upside down to turn away from a shoulder or for threading easier than with an AXA size tool post.

 

[riveter]

Would an AXA be a better fit? Not sure if you would get it any lower though.

I ordered same lathe and toolpost from PM (waiting on it)... they say the BXA is the right fit, but seems like you should have more margin above and below. I was considering their BXA master turning/boring tool set, but it's all 5/8" tooling except a 1/2" and 3/4" boring bar.

I wondered about the AXA but I think the BXA with 1/2" tooling will be OK.

 

[riveter]

I would stick with BXA, some of the holders will vary as to the thickness of the bottom and top of the holder. There is more options with 5/8" tool holders if using inserts.

Lifting the lathe, I recommend going through the ways with a strap, or consider a D-ring lift point. I notched the D-Ring mounting plates so they lock into the ways and then padded them with sheet neoprene rubber. The through bolt/nut was high tensile. Add some jacking straps to level the lathe along the Z axis. Make sure to add sealant around all the bolt holes, use either automotive sealants or a butyl based type, standard silicone breaks down with oil over time.

Be very careful of the tonage setting on the engine hoist, in the first picture I used the 1/2 ton to lift it and then the 1/4T only to position it to the holes. I only had a 1T hoist, on the second lift I had a 2T and more reach, this was also on the longer 1340GT. With a D-RIng I was able to get closer to the headstock end. Make sure you lock the tailstock so it cannot move.
View attachment 417149
View attachment 417150View attachment 417151

Thanks for the lifting and installation tips and pics.