New To Me 11" Logan 920

The lathe looks very good.

Two comments:
The bare metal surfaces are so clean they look dry (not a good thing). Wiping them down with a light oil (NOT WD40) will improve the look.
Also, you said "most of a collet loser". I think it would be a BIG selling point if you could advertise a "working collet closer". Have you rejected the idea of getting it working?
 
Thanks. Yes. Spell correct has mind of its own.

it’s been a good process for me.
Also - In in my rush to post I failed to send out a thankyou to everyone that helped me get here.
Super helpful at every turn - so to speak...

Collet closer - I agree - and in fact - had done some work on it already.
Next person should have it and functional if possible.
I wrestled the apron to the ground until the clutch operated smoothly and all handles moved well/ smoothly - read - took it back apart after I had it nicely sealed with gasket sealer...
Then - I turned my focus to the collet closer.
Here - I got a fair ways along but had some questions.

Some pics below:
1. Does the part that fits in the spindle look correct? It doesn’t seat all the way into the spindle - though it seems a very good fit. Not sure if it is or isn’t the right taper. Can someone with experience let me know if this is how it should seat - or is this the wrong taper part?
IMG_3656.JPGIMG_3657.JPG

2. Have a look at the part that is half way down the closet in this picture. You can see two fairly fine “dogs”. However - there is no reciprocating female detents when it slips inside the spindle tail. Not sure what to make of that.
IMG_3689 3.JPGHere it is inserted in the spindle tail.
Note that the nut that screws on to the spindle tail seams to have two receiving detents for those dogs.
IMG_3701.JPG
However - my part fits INSIDE this nut - and my dogs seem to want to interface with the spindle tail iteself - which has no detents.
IMG_3699.JPG
My suspicion is that the prior owner sourced this - but perhaps it was from a different model year.
That said - the parts seam to be there - like the mounting lug off the back of the headset - for the anchor to pivot off of.

Any thoughts on above by those with experience ?
 
I can't help with the closer... but as far as the spindle sleeve goes, I wouldn't think you would want it to seat against the shoulder... it is supposed to fit against the inner taper, like a morse taper would.

In other words, as long as it fits snugly and has no excessive runout, you should be good.

I would think if you slipped it inside the spindle... just until it seats... and tried 'rocking' it, that should tell you whether the taper is right... or not.

-Bear
 
Thanks Bear.
no rock what so ever.
feels like a precision fit - just doesn’t seat all the way to shoulder.

will keep eye out for more responses on tail end anomalies.
 
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All taper fits, including Morse, are supposed to go tight on the taper, not againist any shoulder. If a shoulder hits before the taper stops whatever you are installing, THEN you have a problem. Either the spindle taper and the tool taper are not the same or something else is wrong.
 
wa5cab said:
All taper fits, including Morse, are supposed to go tight on the taper, not againist any shoulder. If a shoulder hits before the taper stops whatever you are installing, THEN you have a problem. Either the spindle taper and the tool taper are not the same or something else is wrong.
Click to expand...
Based on how it feels when inserted- I am confident it is in fact correct.
Your point makes sense. If it went to the shoulder, it would create two exact points that would need to mesh - taper AND shoulder. That would be impossible to tool.

Thank you
 
Have had a good look at Randy Richard's sorting out of his collet closer - which is in fact my model.
My best guess is that the indexing part I have with the male dogs was supposed to fit a nut that had female detents on the ID near the end of the spindle.

I've got an idea for how I might fabricate something that would also help keep any runout minimized. More on that in future post.

In the mean time - a cry for help.
The 3 jaw chuck I have is made by Logan.
It's three parts, a back plate, a center section, and the front with the slots for the jaws.

I have managed to separate the back plate, but have no clue how to do the same for the front and middle section.
I have everything marked - and sitting in evaporust.
Does anyone have any tricks they can share on how I might disengage the front from this middle section?

Thanks!
-CM
 
is there a screw in the back of the middle part near the pinnion? If so, remove that and lever the pinion out.

if not, make sure there aren't any screws left that might hold the 2 halves together, remove the jaws and use a piece of wood to give the face of the scroll a sharp tap through each slot, with the chuck lying on its side. It'll take a few whacks going round the slots, but you should see a thin line appear between the two halves. If you can't get any further than that, stop and take some pictures. Rarely the pinion can cause things to hang up. Happened to me once, but I can't remember enough about it to know what I did.
 
extropic said:
Pictures of chuck?
Click to expand...
Ha. I didn't think I would get away with that...
Chuck is soaking in rust remover - so I didn't want to pull it for photo.

Mathew - good - will look and attempt.

Pics of split chuck or unsplit to follow...

Thanks.
-CM
 
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