New To Me 11" Logan 920

I should add, since someone may mention them, that there are several ways to build a nut and screw that have zero or near-zero backlash. However, after months or years of use, the cross feed screw will be more worn in the region where you do the most work and in areas where you do little or no work, there will be little or no wear. So if you adjust the nut for near zero backlash in the well-worn area, it will jam or freeze up if you try to move the cross slide into the area where you never work. So you are better off learning how to use the lathe in such a way that back lash doesn't matter.
 
Don't know what happened. I posted that I was wrong, the 900 has a roll pin through the idle gear. In retrospect I assume you split the crossslide from the apron. It was several years ago when I disassembled the one I have, but I don't recall destroying anything in the process. I had included a snapshot of the relevant part of the crossslide, but I doubt you really need it. It must have been apart once before to change the crossslide nut.
 
Charlieman22 said:
To clarify - the powder coater did not want to powder coat - due to the mass of the objects. Too long to cook in his oven.
However - the suggestion turned out to be a good one in its own way.
He gave me a fantastic price on sandblast for all the components - there is a lot of detail - and the $125 price tag was days of labor saved. So in the end, I will paint - but the suggestion did turn out to deliver good opportunity.


A set screw makes more sense - but it looked like a pin - thus my question.
I'll double check this morning.

Anyone else have to wrestle one of these apart that can add some advice?
Click to expand...
(I missed hitting [Post]) My bad, it is a pin. I have a 900 cross slide, purchased for the tee slot cross slide, then forgot it is different than the 800. You have to remove the cross slide from the apron, then you can drive out the pin. But as Robert stated, and I glossed over only because you thought the nut had been replaced, the backlash issue is the same, only up against the cross feed idler gear P/N LA-796 and the cross feed bracket P/N LA-797 as well as the cross slide nut LA-1062/cross feed screw P/N LA-798. The only way to reduce the idler gear/bracket backlash is to use counter bore for thrust bearings and a nut and thin locknut for adjustment or make a Stelling type dial. Though the thought just hit me, I wonder if Belleview washers (the thin wavy washers) have been tried. Hum . . .


View attachment 372598

Ron
 
Ron - thank you.
Good stuff all round.
Suspect as I start working closely with the parts - I will get a deeper understanding - all this will make a bit more sense - but I get the gist.
Belleview washer - savvy idea. Might steel that.
(BTW - your image link isn't working for me)

I had a quick run to Georgia this weekend - and while I was there - stopped in on Bear for a few parts.
Looks to me like the collet holder is the right taper - good news.
At airport this morning - TSA had a few questions...

"Ma'am - They're lathe parts."
"It's a thing that spins"
"A guy named Bear sold them to me"
"I'm pretty sure they are solid cast steel"
"No - they don't explode. They just spin"
:)

Upon return:
Put a coat of primer and paint on the legs.
Dissatisfied with outcome - color is doing nothing for me.
Frankly - prefer the flat primer look over the "gray" - which looks silver to me.
Back to drawing board on that solution.
Bear - check your messages...

Blk primer on right - gray paint on left...IMG_3369.jpg
 
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Charlieman22 said:
At airport this morning - TSA had a few questions...

"Ma'am - They're lathe parts."
"It's a thing that spins"
"A guy named Bear sold them to me"
"I'm pretty sure they are solid cast steel"
"No - they don't explode. They just spin"
:)
Click to expand...


That's funny!

It was nice to meet ya'll... come again sometime. Maybe I'll have more time to sit and talk about machines next time!

-Bear
 
In deep on figuring out viable paint - by which I mean - running in circles.

Stripping down machine has been a great education so far.
Found oil holes I wouldn't have known existed.
Also found at least one bushing in the QCGB that is worn out.
One end of the cone gear shaft.
I'm sure others will be found.

Anything I should watch out for in trying to replace?
No proper press - so plan on using a socket and a c clamp or the drill press to try and press it out.
So worn - no way to tell it's original specs.

Thanks
-CM
 
I have removed those bushings before by using a piece of aluminum just a fuzz smaller than the bushing as a drift and just tapping them out with a hammer. To reinstall the new bushing, a bolt, nut, and 2 washers will squeeze them in easily enough.

Those are oilite bushings... you can order them from McMaster-Carr... not very expensive, IIRC...

When you get the old one out, just measure the ID of the hole, the shaft diameter, and the length of the old bushing.

If the bushing is worn badly, the shaft may be worn, also, so be sure and check that.

-Bear
 
Thanks Bear.
Good prescription all the way around.
I'd just as soon turn the shaft to fit a slightly smaller ID bushing - but of course, I'd need a lathe to do that...

Couple good videos online showing the disassembly process.
Trying to move forward - but sometimes you just got take step back first.

This would be one of those times...
 
Charlieman22 said:
In deep on figuring out viable paint - by which I mean - running in circles.

Stripping down machine has been a great education so far.
Found oil holes I wouldn't have known existed.
Also found at least one bushing in the QCGB that is worn out.
One end of the cone gear shaft.
I'm sure others will be found.

Anything I should watch out for in trying to replace?
No proper press - so plan on using a socket and a c clamp or the drill press to try and press it out.
So worn - no way to tell it's original specs.

Thanks
-CM
Click to expand...
This is the tray I painted with the Benjamin-Moore High Gloss Metal & Wood Enamel, Oil Base (Alkyd), Deep base C-133 3B, Color ID. 2119-30, Color Name, Baby Seal Black, Color Book 133 that Scott provides in the FAQ as one of the original colors. I put it next to my aged orginial color and and over pained 820 for some comparison.

Ron
16271418420162097463063598261285.jpg
 
Thanks Ron.
Appreciate you taking the time to dig up that info.
Had read about that color in the FAQ.
Now I have the formula as well.

Paint has turned out to be deeper dive than expected for me.
Combination of COVID shortages of every off the shelf color I like/ discovery that LA county no longer allows sell of oil based paints/ and a good dose of color choice flip flopping.

After considerable stone flipping - have a plan.
Involves pre catalyzed paint in a can.
Going to test today and will post along with a few other items of wear I could use some advice on.

Much appreciate the input!
-CM
 
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