New (to me) Logan 821

dlinva

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Just picked up a Logan 821 (long bed version of the 820) after Memorial Day from a tech school shop teacher. He had acquired it from the original owner who (supposedly) didn't use it much. Had to disassemble to get it into my 4Runner, but the wife and I managed. Have it home and just now starting to do some work on it. Intent is (while it is apart), to clean, re-paint and then re-assemble. Will post pictures when I get a chance. The only thing I have found so far is the wiring on the motor (original 1/2 hp Peerless with start capacitor) is pretty shot. Ordered some new cable and almost have it re-wired. This site is a wealth of information!
 
So while it is still apart, contemplating upgrading to a QCTP. I have found Phase 2, Shars, Amazon...are there any real differences between these that someone knows about? Something I should be wary of. They all look pretty similar...so much that they could be the same overseas supplier. Any help would be appreciated!
 
Of the Aloris/Dorian type QCTP, there are essentially two different variants that you'll see: the wedge style and the piston style. The overall geometry of both are essentially the same, and the tool holders are interchangeable.

The wedge style tool posts lock the tool holders by (surprise, surprise) a wedge moving up and down within the dovetails, essentially changing the size of the dovetail.

The piston style works by a piston being pushed out into the back of the tool holder, locking it against the dovetails.

The wedge style is largely regarded as superior (all else equal), as it provides a more positive locking mechanism and maintains more of the precision surfaces in contact when it's locked.

The wedge style usually run, I dunno, $20 or so more than their piston style counterparts in the 'A' or 'B' size, which is where I presume you're looking.

When I bought mine a few years ago, I saved the $20 and got the piston style. I wish I hadn't. Just toss in the extra $20 and get the the wedge style.

(It should be obvious, but one of the Phase 2/Shars/Amazon variety won't be as high quality as an Aloris or Dorian. But those'll run you several more times the price of an import.)
 
For the 821 you would want an AXA (100 series). If you are considering Shars check eBay, they typically have them for a bit less there than on their own site. On eBay they are "discount_machine". You will need to machine the "T" nut to fit your compound. Logan also sells sets with the "T" nut already done. https://store.lathe.com/q2303827.html
 
On the subject of piston versus wedge type, it should be mentioned that the size and shape of the piston tends to determine how good it is compared to a wedge type. The cheaper Chinese piston types tend to have a rather small cylindrical piston. I would avoid them. Also avoid anything with an aluminum instead of steel tool tool post. But although no longer made and rather pricey when found, the first import on the market to compete with Aloris and Dorian was the Yuasa (Japanese). It is a piston type but the piston is larger and rectangular on the end that pressed against the tool holders. I have had the complete set purchased new about 40 years ago and have never had any reason to regret the purchase. As they use the same part numbers, for all of the tool holders except one, I've assumed that Yuasa must have sold the line to Shars some time in the past.
 
Thanks everyone! Good tip on looking for Shars products on eBay. Hadn't thought of that. I did already buy a live center from Shars and thought the quality seemed pretty good (obviously haven't used it yet with the lathe in pieces). Goal this weekend is to get the legs, chip pan and bed supports put back together. Have the saddle apart right now, need to do a bit of priming/painting, then that can go back together.
 
Another question. Going to start working on the headstock soon. The belt that came with the lathe is shot. I have seen other threads for replacement belts, to include Logan, but wonder about an endless belt that would require the spindle to be removed. Not afraid to remove the spindle, but is there subsequent alignment issues when putting it back together? Without having taken it apart, I am just leary if there is slop (for lack of a better word) in the system that depends on how it goes back together. If not, the procedure in the manual for removal seems simple enough. Hoping that the bearings are good based on the amount of use this particular lathe had (according to previous owner), but would still like to flush and repack.
 
Oh, and one more thing. Will get some pictures posted this weekend of legs and chip pan. Appreciate everyone's help!
 
If, as you say, you are going to " flush and repack" the bearings, you might as well replace the belts, because you are probably going to have to take the spindle off to do a thorough job. My new to me Select Lathe 816B bearings were running pretty warm, until after I removed the spindle and cleaned and repacked the taper roller bearings. Also added the new belts while I was at it. Not sure if my 816b is anything like your Logan, as far as the headstock insides are concerned.
 
If, as you say, you are going to " flush and repack" the bearings, you might as well replace the belts, because you are probably going to have to take the spindle off to do a thorough job. My new to me Select Lathe 816B bearings were running pretty warm, until after I removed the spindle and cleaned and repacked the taper roller bearings. Also added the new belts while I was at it. Not sure if my 816b is anything like your Logan, as far as the headstock insides are concerned.

ShagDog: What belts did you use? Would be interested in hearing from folks on what they think works best. Set up the legs and pan today. Folks probably will beat me up for putting the Carr-Lane adjustable feet on a 4x4, but needed to raise the lathe up some. If this proves problematic down the road, will do something different. Almost have the bed stands painted, so they will go on next. Paint is "Gloss Silver Gray", Rustoleum 7400 enamel with the corresponding primer. I like this better than the darker blue-gray that was the factory original.

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