New (Used) Enerpac Press (Help!- needs work)

rwm said:
Is it the same as my C frame? Can you measure the ID of the threads?
Robert
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Not a C frame at all, more like a welded rectangle.
 
I'd go with the simplest solution first, replace the cylinder with one that has good threads. If that works for you then go no further, if it doesn't then hopefully the failure mode is the threads on your C frame stripping out with no bad consequences. Replacing those threads should be fine if needed but I would hesitate to re-engineer this kind of tool without a clear understanding of the forces involved. In any case I would probably bead blast that C frame and give it a through inspection if nothing else it will make the paint job look great but like I said I'd hate to find a flaw in it by accident.

JMHO,

John
 
My fear is that even if I buy a new cylinder ($150), I won't trust the C frame threads and I will need to use threaded rod and a plate as a failsafe...so maybe just start with the failsafe?
Next issue:
What am I going to get into if I disconnect the hydraulic line from the cylinder? Do I have to worry about bleeding out air when I reconnect? I have limited experience with hydraulics.
Jim- cylinder is about 2.20" diameter.

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Robert
 
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rwm said:
My fear is that even if I buy a new cylinder ($150), I won't trust the C frame threads and I will need to use threaded rod and a plate as a failsafe...so maybe just start with the failsafe?
Next issue:
What am I going to get into if I disconnect the hydraulic line from the cylinder? Do I have to worry about bleeding out air when I reconnect? I have limited experience with hydraulics.
Jim- cylinder is about 2.20" diameter.

View attachment 319976

Robert
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I'm not going to pretend to engineer this for you. My dad built rockets that went to the moon, me.... Not so much.

That's why I suggested checking it for cracks, it might be overkill but given the consequences maybe not. If it makes you feel better to make a homebrew fail-safe go right ahead, your requirement is cast right into the C-frame, 10 tons.

What I can tell you is yes, when you disconnect the hose you will have to bleed the hydraulic system before it will work properly. Air is compressible, hydraulic fluid is not. You can break the laws of man and get away with it but the laws of physics, well that's another story.

Probably this thing will be fine but nobody can tell you that no matter how many pictures you post on the internet. My take is it's worth checking it out right before you trust it with 20,000 lbs of force. Your local automotive machine shop should have the right equipment to check for cracks BTW.

That's all I have.


John
 
rwm said:
What am I going to get into if I disconnect the hydraulic line from the cylinder? Do I have to worry about bleeding out air when I reconnect? I have limited experience with hydraulics.
Click to expand...

Not really, it's pretty easy to bleed the air out on reassembly. And it will self bleed the last little bit due to the design of the system.

Jim- cylinder is about 2.20" diameter.
Click to expand...

That's what I suspected, 56mm (2.205'') diameter. No way to thread that for a 2 1/4 -14. That is the wrong cylinder, it's metric. The threads in the frame are most likely OK. Just get an Enerpac cylinder.
 
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I was wondering about the cylinder diameter and the threads! If you start with 2.220 there is no way to cut a tall enough thread to reach the correct major diameter. I thought maybe the threads were rolled for strength and got a little taller. So maybe this is not an Enerpac cylinder and is metric?
I will buy the cylinder off Ebay. Hopefully I will get a feel for the thread engagement when I screw it in then decide on a backup reinforcement.
In the mean time I guess I can try to strip and repaint this C frame. Good shelter in place project.
Robert

Jim- You are brilliant. It looks like this is a metric cylinder with a pitch of 2.0. That explains a lot!

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Robert
 
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FYI the pump has an Enerpac label. It is a P39. Must be a pretty old setup.
I already dropped the cylinder and broke the glycerine filled gauge so I will be replacing that also.
Robert
 
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Yellow underneath. That paint didn't want to come off but will make a good primer. Even though I stripped it I think I may try to derust it. The table surface is pretty bad.
Robert
 
rwm said:
View attachment 320036

Yellow underneath. That paint didn't want to come off but will make a good primer. Even though I stripped it I think I may try to derust it. The table surface is pretty bad.
Robert
Click to expand...

If you have a local auto engine rebuilding shop give them a call and ask about hot tanking it. It's usually pretty cheap and if you want it checked for cracks they can do that too.
 
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