Newb quick change tool post/tooling suggestions

Yeah, I tried just kind of laying out the t-nut in different chuck/jaws/spaced configurations. I don't see how to do the Dutchman cut in this without collision. I'll see if I can hire someone here to mill mine down...you are very spot on WineGrower. After the mill it will be the CNC upgrade as well....
 
Just an FYI - you can make a nut for your QTCP only using the lathe. Here is one I made one my SB 11" before I bought my mill...

Stock held in 4-jaw and "facing"/cutting it to width:
BXAbase01.JPG


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Marked out the width of the slot:

BXAbase04.JPG


Shimmed up with a 1-2-3 block and cutting for the slot:
BXAbase06.JPG


Ready to cut to the proper "depth":
BXAbase08.JPG


Hope that helps,

-Ron
 
Ron, that's awesome! It's that step where you have the 1-2-3 block shimming the t-nut out that's super hairy. I don't see how to pull that off without collision. Perhaps now that I see that may not be as crazy and dangerous as I thought it was, I'll give it a whirl.
Thank everyone for the advice and offers to help!
 
I do not want to hijack GON's thread but can someone explain to me why one wouldn't just re-drill and tap the existing t nut to fit the QCTP stud instead of milling a new one? I understand the normal QCTP stud to be 14mm x 1.5 which is larger than the original stud. I'm obviously missing something here and trying to learn. Thanks in advance.
 
Something that I have done when needing a T nut is to use a carriage bolt. The flats typically need a little cleanup with a file to fit the slot and grind flats on the round edge to fit also. Sometimes the head also needs to be flattened to fit. Not as elegant as a T nut but it gets the job done. Only takes a couple of minutes.
 
TerryH said:
I do not want to hijack GON's thread but can someone explain to me why one wouldn't just re-drill and tap the existing t nut to fit the QCTP stud instead of milling a new one? I understand the normal QCTP stud to be 14mm x 1.5 which is larger than the original stud. I'm obviously missing something here and trying to learn. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
For sure let someone seasoned answer this, but there can't be any reason why the stock t-nut couldn't be used. Truth be told, it is a much more complete fit than the blank sent to me with QCTP, it's a bit short. Ultimately you are machining the blank to be as close to original as possible. It wouldn't be logical, but once I tap this stock one, the old is useless unless I make a new one....but yeah, why wouldn't anyone to backwards unless you buy cheap Chinese junk that doesn't have any consistancy..
 
GunsOfNavarone said:
For sure let someone seasoned answer this, but there can't be any reason why the stock t-nut couldn't be used. Truth be told, it is a much more complete fit than the blank sent to me with QCTP, it's a bit short. Ultimately you are machining the blank to be as close to original as possible. It wouldn't be logical, but once I tap this stock one, the old is useless unless I make a new one....but yeah, why wouldn't anyone to backwards unless you buy cheap Chinese junk that doesn't have any consistancy..
Click to expand...

Replacement is available from Grizzly for $4.

http://www.grizzly.com/parts/TOOL-REST-SLIDE-PLATE/P0602222
 
Man Ron! I tried mocking that setup with 1-2-3 blocks and it is a mess! Like 3mm hanging on to that t-nut for dear life! With the tool post and dead center in there, it's like 6 kids putting their hands into the candy bar to fight over the last piece of candy....DEAR LORD!
 
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