Old Westinghouse Motor "Rebuild"

Separate the wires and test them for continuity, then rewire like this: (you can apply 110 volts to each pair and note direction to check polarity)
DualV1a.jpeg
 
markba633csi said:
Separate the wires and test them for continuity, then rewire like this: (you can apply 110 volts to each pair and note direction to check polarity)
View attachment 415392
Click to expand...
All very well, if the wires are marked. Likely they would be numbered rather than letters being used. Sometimes, the numbers were stamped on the insulator, sometimes on bands on the wires.
 
Looking at this again, I don't think the rotation will change if the power is reversed- if one pair is inverted the motor will just hum and not spin or
spin slowly; the breaker might trip. You'll know right away if it's wrong.
I think on motors like these the direction is set by the repulsion winding inside- there may be additional connections around the brushes that will
reverse it but I'm not real familiar
-M
 
Mark,

I believe you are correct from what I read elsewhere. It said there was a way to rotate the plate the brushes are mounted to that will cause the motor to rotate in the opposite direction. Sorry I do not know al of the correct terminology. I' give your idea in Post #`11 sometime today and report back.

TY!
 
Little update:

After removing the gobs of sticky, 100-year old friction tape, I found a few metal rings around the wires with numbers on them.

T-4 previously went to hot
T-2 and T-3 were joined
T-1 (assumed as there was no ring on that wire) previously to hot

Based on the relatively sound assumption that the motor was previously wired for 220 (wired in series), to convert to 110, the system should be wired in parallel.

I show continuity between:

T-1 and T-3
T-2 and T-4

So does anyone have documentation that would make one or the other of the following correct:

T-1 joined to T-2 to hot
T-3 joined to T-4 to neutral

or

T-1 joined to T-3 to hot
T-2 joined to T-4 to neutral

From Mark's sketch (Post #11), and my intuition, T-1 + T-2 and T-3 + T-4 would be the way to go. However, keep in mind that I got a C in electrical engineering in college a long time ago.
 
WOW HOO! Were up and going. Thanks a lot for all the help!

Now, it would be great if anyone out there can help me with the purpose of the loose brass rings on both sides of the motor, inside the motor ends.

IMG-1303.jpg

Thanks again, and as a side, it was T-1 + T-2 and T-3 + T-4.
 
@bug_hunter - With the motor mounted properly, the rings are the oilers for the bearings and shaft. Look up "ring oiler". They run in a pool of oil in the end caps.
My 1/2 HP Westinghouse Model CU has the same thing. If the motor is mounted incorrectly, all the oil runs out!
 
zuhnc said:
@bug_hunter - With the motor mounted properly, the rings are the oilers for the bearings and shaft. Look up "ring oiler". They run in a pool of oil in the end caps.
My 1/2 HP Westinghouse Model CU has the same thing. If the motor is mounted incorrectly, all the oil runs out!
Click to expand...
Zuhnc,

That was what I had thought . Thanks a lot for the insight. The oilers were bone-dry when I got the motor. Pulled the motor apart, cleaned it up, degreased it, rewired it, put a coat of paint on it, now about the re-assembly.

What type of oil do you use, and how much (what level in the oiler)?

Thanks again!
 
Hey Guys,

Me again. Got he motor all put back together, oiled it up, and plugged it in. One of the bushings is running very hot. I believe that the new alignment, after the cleaning and reseating of the motor end, has changes how the shaft mates with the bushings.

Suggested solution?

Ha anyone ever replaced the bushings with a bearing? I believe the only bearing that will fit would be a needle bearing.

Again, thoughts?

Thanks,

Greg
 
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