-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
Pm-1228vf-lb
- Thread starter MSD0
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2015
- Messages
- 1,382
Oh, man. That sucks.
The manual for mine was hanging out the end of the crate but just a couple little holes poked in it from a staple.
Mine didn't have any Styrofoam blocks in the crate.
I guess that's the stand on top. Mine had stickers all over it saying not to double stack on it. It also had metal corner reinforcers at the top corners and on the middle brace.
The manual for mine was hanging out the end of the crate but just a couple little holes poked in it from a staple.
Mine didn't have any Styrofoam blocks in the crate.
I guess that's the stand on top. Mine had stickers all over it saying not to double stack on it. It also had metal corner reinforcers at the top corners and on the middle brace.
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
- Messages
- 179
Got the lathe situated, and once I get back after the weekend, will begin the tedious 'alignment' phase. Anyone have a clue as to how we're supposed to level a lathe with a single row of four bolts supporting it? I guess you'd want to shim to either side of the feet of the casting, but that seems like you'd be putting a lot of pressure (once bolted up) on a small area of not too sturdy material. The stand itself seems flexible enough that shimming it's four corners wouldn't get you very far.
Beneath the stand feet I placed two sections of rubber horse-stall matt, and had enough left for an anti-fatigue matt and padded grippy surface for the top of the head stock. Power cord is chewed up, but no conductors exposed, so it powered up just find and turns how you'd expect. One wrinkle that's weird is the on switch has a position for milling...with the Sieg milling attachment that bolts onto the back of the bed. The machine is definitely of Sieg origin, licensed or otherwise. The speed readout is not very good, but it's at least both very small and very simple; the spindle is drilled for a pressed-in magnet, and a very cheap Hall effect sensor detects it. The readout updates once a second or so, but varies 50-90rpm as the machine idles (seemingly smoothly) when first turned on. Upon pressing the speed up/down buttons, the delay is in the multiple seconds, and along with the aforementioned inaccuracy, makes it hard to tell if the lathe is actually responding. It doesn't help that the motor and gearbox are practically silent, lol. The shaft magnet is probably fine, and the sensor likely becomes more accurate as the magnet moves faster, and the whole sensor/display unit is about the size of a pack of ciggies and bolted to the casting. If any component should become broken or too irritating, it would be simple enough to rig up a cheap ebay RPM sensor of better quality.
I'm still taking stock of what all I'm missing; I don't think it's too much stuff, and not anything super important (worst is one of the extra 3 jaw jaws is missing). The QCTP I ordered as well as the thread dials are not shipping with these machines, they are coming later, apparently. Bit of a let down there, but I will be plenty entertained running old HSS stubs out of the turret post while I learn. Machine was quite dirty, which may be due to the damaged crate, although the machine was wrapped in plastic. No grit anywhere as best I can tell, which is the important part, though.
"Mine didn't have any Styrofoam blocks in the crate."
That's not Styrofoam hanging out the end, that's the headstock door... hanging on by a thread, too, as every single #10 screw holding the various parts of the headstock panels together had nearly shaken themselves free of the machine. I honestly can't explain that, other than the palletizing arrangement must not have isolated the machine from vibration very well. Incidentally, I will soon be modifying the door. In order to swing it open, its rear corner sticks a good three inches past the splash guard, and since I don't have that much room to spare (1 car garage with large coupe) I will cut the corner down into a 45degree angle so I can open the door enough to reach the change gear without hitting the wall.
TCB
Beneath the stand feet I placed two sections of rubber horse-stall matt, and had enough left for an anti-fatigue matt and padded grippy surface for the top of the head stock. Power cord is chewed up, but no conductors exposed, so it powered up just find and turns how you'd expect. One wrinkle that's weird is the on switch has a position for milling...with the Sieg milling attachment that bolts onto the back of the bed. The machine is definitely of Sieg origin, licensed or otherwise. The speed readout is not very good, but it's at least both very small and very simple; the spindle is drilled for a pressed-in magnet, and a very cheap Hall effect sensor detects it. The readout updates once a second or so, but varies 50-90rpm as the machine idles (seemingly smoothly) when first turned on. Upon pressing the speed up/down buttons, the delay is in the multiple seconds, and along with the aforementioned inaccuracy, makes it hard to tell if the lathe is actually responding. It doesn't help that the motor and gearbox are practically silent, lol. The shaft magnet is probably fine, and the sensor likely becomes more accurate as the magnet moves faster, and the whole sensor/display unit is about the size of a pack of ciggies and bolted to the casting. If any component should become broken or too irritating, it would be simple enough to rig up a cheap ebay RPM sensor of better quality.
I'm still taking stock of what all I'm missing; I don't think it's too much stuff, and not anything super important (worst is one of the extra 3 jaw jaws is missing). The QCTP I ordered as well as the thread dials are not shipping with these machines, they are coming later, apparently. Bit of a let down there, but I will be plenty entertained running old HSS stubs out of the turret post while I learn. Machine was quite dirty, which may be due to the damaged crate, although the machine was wrapped in plastic. No grit anywhere as best I can tell, which is the important part, though.
"Mine didn't have any Styrofoam blocks in the crate."
That's not Styrofoam hanging out the end, that's the headstock door... hanging on by a thread, too, as every single #10 screw holding the various parts of the headstock panels together had nearly shaken themselves free of the machine. I honestly can't explain that, other than the palletizing arrangement must not have isolated the machine from vibration very well. Incidentally, I will soon be modifying the door. In order to swing it open, its rear corner sticks a good three inches past the splash guard, and since I don't have that much room to spare (1 car garage with large coupe) I will cut the corner down into a 45degree angle so I can open the door enough to reach the change gear without hitting the wall.
TCB
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2015
- Messages
- 1,382
BarnBWT, If you are planning on putting an AXA QCTP on your PM1228, you might want to know that the compound slide it too high for one, and you won't be able to put a tool on the center line.
Matt is having some replacement slides made and will send them to us that purchased the PM1228.
If you have a mill it is pretty easy fix. You have to take off the compound slide and the turntable. The thick block under it is called the "Knife Rest Turntable Seat." Turn it over and mill off no less than .050 off the bottom. That will put a 1/2" cutting tool a few thousandths under center when the tool holder is bottomed on the compound slide.
If you think you'll want a tool under center anytime, you might want to mill off 60 or 70 thousandths from the turntable seat. The bottom has to milled because there is a circular t-slot groove on the top for the turntable t-nuts.
Matt is having some replacement slides made and will send them to us that purchased the PM1228.
If you have a mill it is pretty easy fix. You have to take off the compound slide and the turntable. The thick block under it is called the "Knife Rest Turntable Seat." Turn it over and mill off no less than .050 off the bottom. That will put a 1/2" cutting tool a few thousandths under center when the tool holder is bottomed on the compound slide.
If you think you'll want a tool under center anytime, you might want to mill off 60 or 70 thousandths from the turntable seat. The bottom has to milled because there is a circular t-slot groove on the top for the turntable t-nuts.
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
- Messages
- 179
I thought AXA was for 3/8" tooling, shimmed to the centerline. That may explain why 1/2" doesn't quite fit.
The toolpost screws onto the cross slide, right? Could you turn back the bottom face of it to drop the tool down a bit? I don't have a mill handy.
TCB
The toolpost screws onto the cross slide, right? Could you turn back the bottom face of it to drop the tool down a bit? I don't have a mill handy.
TCB
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2015
- Messages
- 1,382
barnbwt, AXA is a quick change toolpost. The tool holders will hold up to 1/2" tools. A dovetail mechanism is attached to the compound slide with a threaded rod and the tool holders with different tools can be slipped on and off and secured with a lever.
You don't have to shim tools in them because they can be adjusted up and down in the dovetail.
The tool holders are hardened and would have have about 50 thousandths ground from the bottom.
You don't have to shim tools in them because they can be adjusted up and down in the dovetail.
The tool holders are hardened and would have have about 50 thousandths ground from the bottom.
Last edited:
- Joined
- May 14, 2015
- Messages
- 179
I thought BXA was the 1/2" size (or some metric equivalent)? A friend got a bunch of free 1" insert holder bars, and just used an angle grinder to relieve them enough to fit his BXA post, and shims them to reach center. What does the bottom of the actual QC tool post look like? I figure it'd be easier to drop the entire tool post on the carriage rather than every individual tool holder or tool. Maybe I could chuck it into a 4 jaw and turn the mating face back enough to lower a 1/2" tool to center (or less)?
TCB
TCB