PM1030 tripping breakers on startup

PM has new boards ~$130. I tried swapping a 30amp breaker in. Yes I realize I need to upgrade the wiring to suit the breaker. Results in no trips. I am wondering if...

1. The construction of my particular GE Q-line breakers is sensitive to the type of inrush loads the board produces
2. The NTC resister on the board made me wonder if the fact the machine is inches from the panelboard is working against me? Hear me out and sorry if this is utterly stupid but if the machine were ~50' away on older wiring wouldn't there be more resistance in the circuit which would have a similar effect to the NTC which is supposed to dampen the inrush when cold then lower resistance when hot? Yes I realize that is not a 'solution' but I am trying to figure this out.
 
That is quite possible.
Those darn electrons are sneaky.....
 
If it trips as in photo then could be dead short or surge.

Locate a wall wart with output in a.c. volts.

Does not matter how many.

Confirm it is good, with clip leads attach voltmeter and power, maybe a fuse less than rating of wall wart.

Now attach to input of unit and see if voltage drops to zero.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
Could it be a bad motor? Is it a brushless dc motor? If it has motor brushes I check to make they are good then check the motor To see if it spins free or, if the bearings are dragging or history. The Chinese motors don’t have a good history in my machines, DC or AC. Far as that goes nothing electronic or electrical seems to last long. I have replace all but 1 motor with 3ph and VFDs and it get a Baldor and WJ200 vfd.
CH
 
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It sure is leaning to a board problem. If it pops the breaker with nothing but the power cord connected then you have your answer. It looks like there may be a varistor on the board, I have seen them fail with low resistence, Since it is a DC motor, that means there is a bridge rectifer burried in that epoxy mess somewhere, one of the 4 diodes could have failed, or it could be a bad capacitor. If it is still under warranty I would expect a replacement. If it is not under warranty I would start digging thru the epoxy to see what I could find with the expectation that you will need to buy a new board, I just cant spen money on parts without at least trying to fix what I have first.
 
Flyinfool - all my thoughts exactly. If I can keep it trip free with my 30amp circuit (re wired for safety) then I believe I will be happy and will move on to next steps with this lathe including adjusting the change gears to reduce noise and clatter. Oh and also making parts :)
 
r-mm said:
Has anybody had a problem with a PM1030V tripping breakers when first turned on?.
Click to expand...

I'm late with this input but Id like to add that it may not te load of your PM1030V causing the problem. An electrician colleague of mine with 45 years of experience in the trade advised me to avoid panel mounted GFI breakers, especiall those rated at 20 amps. He tells me that he had a 20% failure rate (nuisance tripping) with one brand he formerly used and that his experience with other brands isn't much better; once they trip and reset they tend to nuisance trip more easily. He now does new circuit installations using only the duplex style of GFI at the service point.
 
My new (November) PM1022V (same as 1030V minus 8 inches) has recently started tripping the breaker randomly on startup, otherwise it runs fine. The electrical panel is 4 feet away with a 20 amp breaker. There are no other significant loads on the circuit. It's time for me to call the techs at PM.
 
Logan Novice said:
.... An electrician colleague of mine with 45 years of experience in the trade advised me to avoid panel mounted GFI breakers, especiall those rated at 20 amps.....
Click to expand...
I know this is a long thread to read all of it, but OP has stated multiple times throughout it that the breakers in question are conventional breakers, not GFCI breakers. :)

Tom
 
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