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You can have both, if you want them. Not sure how many of EITHER we have left.
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Pm727m and face milling
- Thread starter Brad125
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2019
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- 63
OK, I just can't help it but with all this SuperFly business it's reminding me of early days turning wrenches at the Cadillac Dealership and the SuperFly Caddy back in the day.
- Joined
- May 13, 2019
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- 1,016
I got my Superfly in a few days ago and I had a chance to try it out. I needed to flatten a piece of 1018 steel about 0.9" wide by 9" long. It was cut off a much bigger piece and it had a slight bow in it with the ends higher than the middle. I clamped it in my Kurt 4" vise and took some shallow cuts about 0.003" deep. I was getting all kinds of chatter at the ends with a wave pattern generated that was both visual and physical. I was ready to start cursing it. But, I pushed ahead and kept cutting deeper until I got to the section that was clamped firmly in the vise. It was like a mirror. I realized that the ends of the bar were unsupported and causing the issue. So, I added a machinist jack at each end and tried again. It was awesome. Beautiful finish.
I'm still trying to learn feeds and speeds on this. I tried from about 600 RPMs to 1000 RPMs and feeds of 5 to 8 IPM. I want to try deeper cuts too. The deepest I tried was 0.005" So, what speeds, feeds, DOC, etc. would be appropriate for 1018 steel less than an inch wide?
I'm still trying to learn feeds and speeds on this. I tried from about 600 RPMs to 1000 RPMs and feeds of 5 to 8 IPM. I want to try deeper cuts too. The deepest I tried was 0.005" So, what speeds, feeds, DOC, etc. would be appropriate for 1018 steel less than an inch wide?
- Joined
- May 3, 2017
- Messages
- 1,997
Ditto! Mine came in over the weekend, and I got a chance to play with it with a 4" wide piece of aluminum. Photos don't do the finish justice. I need to do a lot more experimenting with feeds and speeds, but I already know I love this tool! MASTER MIKEY STRIKES AGAIN!!!!
Regards,
Terry
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2012
- Messages
- 9,422
Speeds are dependent on the material. Each material class will have a recommended cutting speed that is used to calculate RPM and the same calculation can be used to find a starting speed, whether you're turning or using a milling cutter like your fly cutter. There are tables for cutting speeds, given in SFM (surface feet per minute) all over the net and in reference texts. LMS has a popular one.
Find the material you are working with and look up the cutting speed for the tool you're using. For 1018 being cut with a carbide tool, CS is about 800 sfm. Now plug that CS into the formula: RPM = CS X 3.82 / Diameter, where CS is your cutting speed from the table, 3.82 is a constant and Diameter is the diameter of the cutter on the mill or the work piece on the lathe. In your case, the minimum diameter of your Superfly is 1.5" or so. Plugging in the values, RPM = 800 X 3.82 / 1.5 = 2,037 rpm. This same cut in aluminum would max out the speed of your mill.
Note also that as the extension of your tool increases, the diameter increases and the speeds will accordingly slow down a bit.
As we know, carbide needs speed so you'll be running pretty fast. Note also that these speeds you calculate are estimates or a starting point; they are not written in stone. Try that speed and go up or down as your results dictate. If you get chatter, slow down. If you need a better finish, speed up.
Feeds vary but carbide likes to cut a chip so don't dawdle with carbide. The tool should be constantly producing a chip. If the finish is too grainy, slow down.
Note that speeds and feeds vary with depth of cut. The deeper you go, the slower your speeds and feeds need to be. You need to play with it but the Superfly and the Sherline fly cutter can seriously hog material. You need to set a depth of cut and speed and then see how fast you can feed to get the results and finish you need. Over time, you will learn how to adjust to the cut, which is the mark of skill.
Hope this helps. If it is not clear, sing out.
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- Dec 20, 2012
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I should add that a fly cutter is a relatively BIG cutter and when used properly, it is taking a big chip and slinging it out. This constitutes a significant danger to your eyes so be sure to wear safety glasses and keep your mouth closed! The Superfly in particular can throw a shower of chips a good distance and most of us who own this tool eventually make some kind of enclosure to reduce the mess.
Along with chips will be your cutting oil/fluid. It can get messy but more importantly, it can get into your eyes. Safety first!
The other thing to note is that fly cutters will produce the best finish when climb cutting but results may depend on how deep you cut and the rigidity of your mill. Best idea is to rough in the conventional direction and finish in the climb direction; works well for me.
Along with chips will be your cutting oil/fluid. It can get messy but more importantly, it can get into your eyes. Safety first!
The other thing to note is that fly cutters will produce the best finish when climb cutting but results may depend on how deep you cut and the rigidity of your mill. Best idea is to rough in the conventional direction and finish in the climb direction; works well for me.
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2013
- Messages
- 4,063
