Possible new wood working tool ...?

[borges1]

Im a architectural woodwork/furniture shop. No CNC in the shop, and i rarely outsource that sort of work (usually specialty balusters or wacky 'art' cutout panel stuff). There is always a way to make it happen old school, and i find that is often the most effective route. I did just buy a mill, mostly because i wanted to learn, but also so i can make my own tools/hardware. One of the uses will definitely be making jigs for complex hardware install like Tectus hinges, pivot hinges, flush outlets, etc. I've always made those jigs from wood, but they end up not lasting as long as id like. Doing any of theat on an analog milling machine seem like it would actualy introduce more slop/error than a goo jig and take a lot longer. I've pondered an over arm router for specialty projects (mostly custom handrail fabrication) but i don't have the space for a tool used so rarely and i have other ways. I have seen router table versions, and nice japanese machines that do similar work, but again, space and rarity of use. Ive done plenty of inlay freehand, with edge guides, and purched or shop made tramels/circle jigs. Scaled from tiny to huge; tons of complex jointery by hand, machine, or hybrid, again at all scales.

To the original poster, what is your specific use for a mill/overarm router for hinges? I cannot imagine a situation where that would be even on the top fire ways i would approach a hinge or any hardware i can think of. Is the hardware going into metal 'millwork'? Flush trim router bits, router bushings, a compact router, and some scrap sheetgood to make templates will get you lots of places. A drill and some chisels will too. Or just chisels. If you had a lot of varied specialty hinges to install precisely on a jobsite (not in a shop) there is the Shaper Origin. Just curoius since this seems like a very complex approach to pretty simple tasks.

 

[Eddyde]

Has anyone built a vertical mill for wood with a worn out small drill press and a Dremel tool? Negate the motor and spindle, mount the tool in or on the quill, mount a 1/8 to 3/16 milling cutter in the tool and be able to fix that a defined distance above the table so repetitive cuts could be made (in wood) ?

For instance, inletting a cut for hinges... or inlay work.

Unless you are talking about model making or doin very small wood projects, a "Dremel" type tool will not have sufficient power to do any serious wood cutting. You need at least a router motor.

 

[whitmore]

I've made some CD storage boxes using bottoms with tabs, sidewalls of tempered hardboard with slots, and
made the slots with a Dremel and router adapter. It was a nuisance (clearance of chips, elasticity of
the wood, slot edges needing reworking/deburring with sandpaper) and I've been imagining other ways
for a while.

I even got (hooray for eBay) a metal punch that could make the slots in single-stroke fashion, but had such beefy
return springs that it'd take a hydraulic assist to use.

Current plan (not yet implemented) is to make a hinge that drops the tool, and a guide rail with stops
so it makes a consistent slot length. Instead of electric, I'm considering using one of my pneumatic
'die grinder' items, because of the dust-in-the-motor issue.

I'd recommend using something that cools in operation better than a Dremel (like a pneumatic), if you
want to do complex projects. Dust removal (maybe with an air jet aimed near the cut) will be an issue
if there's a lot of material removed. I just went outdoors for the small project... but it took me a LONG time
to hand-guide the tool through a few dozen slots.

For slot making, the ball end mill is more durable than an end mill would be. I suspect a lot of
sign-making shops can tell you more about milling in wood, and the associated equipment.

 

[T Bredehoft]

I'm thinking of inlets for hinges, currently, 30 to 45 thousandts deep. We'll see.

I've noticed my drill press claims 2500, I may try that out....