Possible Purchase of PM-25MV

macardoso: That makes sense. Thanks for the tip.

I have a newbie question since I'm getting closer to start using this thing. I've been reading the manual and I'm a little confused. It state for milling operations (pg 10) to keep the quill fully retracted and locked. I would assume that the Z axis handwheel should be used here.

But, then on page 11, it says to lock the level hub and use the fine control know to precisely control the depth. Doesn't this raise and lower the quill?

Which method should be used for milling to control the Z axis? This seems contradictory.
 
Which method should be used for milling to control the Z axis? This seems contradictory.

You'll find that there are lots of different ways to skin a cat. You'll find that - for milling - keeping the quill fully retracted and locked will give you better rigidity. You should be locking anything that you aren't moving during a cut.

I find that when I was using my machine manually, I would rough dial in the depth with the Z axis handwheel and then use the fine feed to get the last 1/4" or so. That way you get to use the DRO on the quill.
 
All,

I spent the bulk of last night removing the grease off of everything. It was quite a job. I used WD-40 at first which seemed to work. Many, many applications were needed. The last little bits of stubborn grease were removed with mineral spirits. Both seem to work okay. I'm not sure if the mineral spirits were better, but I wanted to see.

Now, I'm ready to re-install the head and table. I realize that I don't have Mobil Vactra No 2 oil as recommended in the manual. So, I ordered some. I guess I'll wait until I get the oil before I install the table so I can pre-oil it better.

Also, I got my Kurt DX4 vise. Wow! This vise is a thing of beauty! I'm afraid to use it. I hope I'm worthy of it!

Can someone recommend a fly cutter for this mill? I think I want HSS, not carbide from what I read. Also, do I want a straight shank (if so, what diameter?) or R8? I'm thinking R8 would be more rigid.
 
I have found the Tormach TTS system to be a nice fit for my G0704. That is based on a 3/4" straight shank and saves on some tool height during changes. Even if you don't plan on going to this system, it might be good to get a 3/4" shank fly cutter.

Don't be afraid of carbide (although nothing is wrong with HSS). I am using carbide nearly 100% in my shop because I don't want grinding dust in my basement. It isn't terribly expensive and is very consistent in how it cuts.
 
Don't be afraid of carbide (although nothing is wrong with HSS). I am using carbide nearly 100% in my shop because I don't want grinding dust in my basement. It isn't terribly expensive and is very consistent in how it cuts.

I have gone with a CBN setup, which essentially eliminates the grinding dust issue, and also no need to true the wheels ever.

Will need some diamond wheels when I eventually get into carbide, HSS is great newb learning :)
 
Okay, I got the head on without issue. But, I think there is a problem with the power indicator. As you can see from the photo, the power is on and the spindle is turning, but the power indicator between the 1 and 0 button is not lit.

I still have to attach the table, but another question/issue came up. I attached a drill chuck to the spindle by removing the spindle cap. What is it's purpose? Do I need to add and remove this every time I change the collet or drill chuck? It's not going on and off very easily.

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That shield was engineered by lawyers[sic], take it off, toss it on the floor and trip over it about 7 times before throwing it away.

My power switch never lit up, is it even supposed to?
 
bakrch: You are correct on both counts. I emailed PM and they told me that there is no power light on the PM-25MV and the spindle cap is not really needed and gets in the way.

I guess I'm good to go!
 
bakrch: You are correct on both counts. I emailed PM and they told me that there is no power light on the PM-25MV and the spindle cap is not really needed and gets in the way.

I guess I'm good to go!
That light comes on when you stall the motor or some other kind of protection kicks in. If I recall correctly, when you stall the spindle, it makes you power cycle it before it will run again.
 
Finally, I was able to attached the table. Ready for action.
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First cuts! A 3/4" piece of 6061 in my Kurt vise! I had to remove the plastic guard before doing my first cut. Does everyone remove this?
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