POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

I like your discussion of the VW diesels. It looks like it was a beautiful day at the track.

However, at 1.8+MB per second, you video is a bit rich for my slow & metered net connection. I wonder if there is a way for you to post videos that aren't such high res?
try this. you can't attach .mkv files, or it'd be even smaller.
 

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  • race.mp4
    19.2 MB
I own an import repair shop and that particular trophy is for a project car that we assembled. I like the power and mileage you get from the VW diesels, especially the common rail version. I always wanted to put that engine in something else but no one built a harness or ECU to accommodate that so I made my own harness and with help from a tuner that specializes in those cars were were able to make it run standalone.
As a test bed we put it in the back of a 68 Beetle that had been cut into a flatbed at one time. The bed was long gone and it was real easy to stick the engine in and test it on the road.
Well the engine is pretty well perfected and still in the test bed. It is driven often as a daily driver, but we tow it to the dragstrip occasionally and run it there. The car weighs 1700 lbs and has according to the tuners dyno, more than 180 horsepower and more than 380 ft.lb of torque at the wheels. It turns the same times as the dedicated race camaros and novas and generates a lot of interest and smiles.
Small displacement diesel are a lot of fun, common rail engines do make lot more power than the mechanical pump ones also newer generation diesels have lot more valves and breath much better. Vw PD diesel are all around me and some people love them to death, but in my opinion better start with the biggest displacement you can and make it better. One engine you may want to look at is ford's ecodiesel 3.0 litre it's been developed with peugeot and land rover and used in 2,7 litre foam since 2004 here in europe. I've dealt with one in my 607 i'll attach a ling the the thread at the bottom. The engine in my peugeot stock is 205 hp and 440 Nm of torque, with only ECU remap they make over 400 hp and more than 900 Nm.
 
Ah, back to welding on Lada Nivas! I recall you running at least a kilometer of wire on your car I'm sure you have the process down at this point! Nice fix there. If you move to Michigan, please let me know. We could use a craftsman of your talents nearer by!
I do a lot more repairs on vehicles that i don't have time to take pictures, also i teach math, computer science and physics in 4 schools in two languages. Just to earn enough for a decent life i know there is better standards in the US but my heart and my family is here. If things change, the US is one place that i'll like to work and live in.
 
I do a lot more repairs on vehicles that i don't have time to take pictures, also i teach math, computer science and physics in 4 schools in two languages. Just to earn enough for a decent life i know there is better standards in the US but my heart and my family is here. If things change, the US is one place that i'll like to work and live in.
When and if you move, remember to adopt me as your brother. I see lots of your projects are working on his abused cars! I drive like an old man (because I am an old man), I promise to never go off-roading and beating the stuffing out of a car/truck/quad, etc.!

Bruce
 
I think the main source of friction in these is the mainspring gumming up. I made a crude but effective tool for unwinding and rewinding the spring to get it in and out of the drum. Do not try playing with the mainspring if you do not have a way to contain it, lots of kinetic energy there to take your fingers off. I would automatically oil and clean the spring on the clock first thing except that in order to get to it you have the clock all disassembled so you might as well go all the way. So instead I try light cleaning and oiling first and resetting the beat. I think I have all my easy ones done so I keep putting off the harder ones till later.
I use a synthetic clock oil anymore after seeing how well synth works in cars these days.
Mainspring already done. Cleaned, inspected and oiled.
 
400 day are fun.

Have way too many...then you start on Atmos.

Power transfer is difficult as the friction in gears must be minimum and simple error in beat can cause failure.

The nawcc board has lots of help.


Did you set the beat in your 400 day?

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
Got tired of trying to spin the little hex on my mill’s drawbar. Little bit of 3d printing and:

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It‘s a tool that gives me a full hand grip instead of that little 8mm hex. Thats also my first print in PETG. Similar temp tolerance as ABS and almost as strong. Except it doesn’t have the same warping problems and tempertaure sensitivity as ABS when printing. I like it so far!

I still have to make up a steel insert that will be heated and pressed in to the plastic, but its coming along nicely!
 
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I spent some time on the surface grinder today, squaring up some angle plates/blocks. The stepped block was about .001” out of perpendicular and the plate was out .0007”. Both are now perpendicular to about .0002” or better in all directions.
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It took a while, but seemed to work well to grind a shim into one side for the desired correction. The finish has some problem spots, but I’m happy with the result.
 
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