POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

It's Ospho Rust. (yeah, I know Ospho vs. Oxpho is confusing, take it up with Brownell's). The Ospho rust is a lot better than plain naval jelly since it has chromic acid in it, but it's also kinda nasty stuff that should never be used unattended, and pity the foo who leaves something in it overnight. It blackens very well with heat. Pre-warming a part with a heat gun then dunking it is Ospho is rock and roll, and leaves a solid grey-black finish that takes Cerakote and selenium bluing very well.

Pity this foo who left his files in the solution on Friday evening to be found on Saturday morning. That foo was me. The files came out clean and etched sharp, but that is a lot of leaching of manganese from the metal matrix. Not recommended. This was intended to be a 60-minute treatment, but I am aging along with the rest of you. Consider it a goof to avoid.
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It's Ospho Rust. (yeah, I know Ospho vs. Oxpho is confusing, take it up with Brownell's). The Ospho rust is a lot better than plain naval jelly since it has chromic acid in it, but it's also kinda nasty stuff that should never be used unattended, and pity the foo who leaves something in it overnight. It blackens very well with heat. Pre-warming a part with a heat gun then dunking it is Ospho is rock and roll, and leaves a solid grey-black finish that takes Cerakote and selenium bluing very well.

Pity this foo who left his files in the solution on Friday evening to be found on Saturday morning. That foo was me. The files came out clean and etched sharp, but that is a lot of leaching of manganese from the metal matrix. Not recommended. This was intended to be a 60-minute treatment, but I am aging along with the rest of you. Consider it a goof to avoid.
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Thanks!! I see that my local Ace Hardware has it. I’ll get some tomorrow. I’m going to be bluing some little parts soon. Prepping for bluing is always hit or miss.
 
I get mine at Ace. It's almost $40/gal, but lasts a long time and works well diluted 3:1 water:Ospho. I always have a bucket ready, and I derust and blacken fasteners with Ospho in a jar in the ultrasonic cleaner, too.

The best part is the files came out like overcooked pasta, so I was able to tie them in knots afterward.

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(Just kidding...)
 
Having an ice/sleet storm here, thundersleet! So making a few preps. And started on a semi spill proof oil can, we'll see how long it holds my attention. Spilled kero on my clothes, so the sweet and lovely is not going to be pleased.20230130_175732.jpg20230130_185008.jpg
 
I get mine at Ace. It's almost $40/gal, but lasts a long time and works well diluted 3:1 water:Ospho. I always have a bucket ready, and I derust and blacken fasteners with Ospho in a jar in the ultrasonic cleaner, too.

The best part is the files came out like overcooked pasta, so I was able to tie them in knots afterward.

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(Just kidding...)
Oh man... that reminds me the trick we used to do with eggs... we would place them in vinegar to get the shell soft... and then we would slide them into a glass bottle...
 
Nothing particularly exciting, but I'm very happy with how it came out - refurbing the headlights on the 2005 Town and Country my wife's aunt gave us for our kids to learn in. It's been pretty neglected so I'm busy working my way through the issues

Before
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Sanded, polished and lacquered vs old
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New brackets fabricobbled (all three were broken off) plus a preemptive fix on the other one
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Installed!
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Also fixed an abs light (new sensors), serviced the brakes, snapped off both rear drum bleed nipples (new cylinders are in hand) and stripped out the nasty ass drooping headliner :) I was pretty pooped this weekend. Last week I replaced the driver's side window regulator. Driving home from Georgia with the taped up was not fun.

Plus i found torn drive boots all round, so new drive shafts are in their way!
 
So, my first dabble in making something more precision than it was, or should be...

Tried honing the 'cylinder square' that was turned the other day. Just marked the 'high spot' on the bottom and started lapping it on a 325grit diamond plate. Then checked it. I'll be darned, it moved a tenth in the right direction. A couple more minutes, and it was even closer. Few more minutes and it's looking better, except the high spot moved 45 degrees.

Chased the high spot around on a 600 grit plate next. What do you know, its even closer. Few more quick passes, and some 'spinning it around' on the diamond and I'm having trouble finding "low vs. high". It's square to well under a half a tenth. I'm guessing maybe 1/3 tenth???
This was measured keeping the indicator base still, and rotating the pin 180 degrees and watching the needle. (If I swept the indicator around the pin, the surface plate imperfections show up...)

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So, the next step will be to let it sit for the night for the temperature to equalize. Then check it tomorrow. Holding it by hand may have distorted it. The scratches look way worse than they are, it's actually pretty darn smooth.

If it's really 1/3 of a tenth over 5", that's single digit millionths per inch range. I believe the base *could* be that square. But the pin is ever so slightly smaller at the ends than the middle. Only the last 1/2" or so, and around 1/2 to 1/4 tenth at those ends. So, not a 'perfect' square yet.

Seeing how well this is coming, I think I'll start looking for some aluminum to make round lap, and try to lap the pin perfectly parallel spinning it in the lathe. Just need to find a 20 millionths indicator now... ;)
 
Oh man... that reminds me the trick we used to do with eggs... we would place them in vinegar to get the shell soft... and then we would slide them into a glass bottle...

You would have won the day if you said that you got the decalcified egg into the bottle by heating the bottle to expand the air and letting it suck the egg inside as it cools.
 
Concerning the “punch grinder” purchases:

This is part of the 'new batch' I was seeing. If you buy one of these lower priced units and can check it out, please report back. It's possible it may be just as good as the higher priced ones. What concerned me was the fit and finish of these looked worse, even in the images. Paid only about $70 more that this one, so for that it was worth the gamble.

I have not tried this yet, but I have been thinking I would use the spin indexer for this, on the B&S #2 surface grinder. Is this feasible? The indexer bearings are fine for what milling operations I’ve done on it. Looking forward to your comments.
 
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