POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[dkemppai]

What diameter end mill?

1/16". I didn't have a 1mm, or I might have tried one.

I threw it under the microscope to see the clearance grind. Clearly I need a finer diamond!

 

[rdean]

Over the past few days I have been making a new canvas canopy for my tractor. I miss judged the height of a tree branch that I tried to drive under. So I entirely started over.


I kind of over did it on the base plates with brass bushings and thumb screw adjusters. Just one of the problems when you are used to working in thousands of an inch.


Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[jwmay]

10-241 Atlas bull gear lock pin.

 

[silverhawk]

I had my longest set up time on drilling a hole in wood in my life. I've been slowly progressing on some machinist chests out of reclaimed walnut (these have taken a few years to get to this point). It was time to drill the holes for the front panel latch (parallel to the top front panel, or I'd drill through the side of the board, and I definitely didn't want that at this point in the game). Drill press table was trammed in to 0.002". Then I could use the 12" long, 1/4" bore drill bits in stages (needed to go 4", my drill press only goes 3").






Then I could manually drill the two ends for the caps.



One hour per hole to make sure it was exactly as it needed to be. I am now a little overanxious after doing the drilling, but it went just fine. Now I can install the last few panels inside, sand the carcasses, and put some polyurethane on them. I am dreading making so many drawers.

 

[woodchucker]

I had my longest set up time on drilling a hole in wood in my life. I've been slowly progressing on some machinist chests out of reclaimed walnut (these have taken a few years to get to this point). It was time to drill the holes for the front panel latch (parallel to the top front panel, or I'd drill through the side of the board, and I definitely didn't want that at this point in the game). Drill press table was trammed in to 0.002". Then I could use the 12" long, 1/4" bore drill bits in stages (needed to go 4", my drill press only goes 3").

View attachment 464272


View attachment 464273

Then I could manually drill the two ends for the caps.

View attachment 464274

One hour per hole to make sure it was exactly as it needed to be. I am now a little overanxious after doing the drilling, but it went just fine. Now I can install the last few panels inside, sand the carcasses, and put some polyurethane on them. I am dreading making so many drawers.

best way to assure a straight drill is to go from both sides and meet in the middle when you can.

I put a piece of wood on the drill press, drill a hole in the piece of wood.
I put the piece I want to drill up on the piece of wood with an angle plate, drill to center. I flip the piece , but I put a dowel in the plate on the press, and mount the piece on the dowel in the hole I just drilled. That way I line up.

In your case that won't work because you are already glued up. I also have a craftsman port align, it has guide bars that I can use to center on a piece, and could easily drill deep using it.

Very important is to keep clearing chips to prevent build up and walking off or pushing off.

 

[silverhawk]

best way to assure a straight drill is to go from both sides and meet in the middle when you can.

I put a piece of wood on the drill press, drill a hole in the piece of wood.
I put the piece I want to drill up on the piece of wood with an angle plate, drill to center. I flip the piece , but I put a dowel in the plate on the press, and mount the piece on the dowel in the hole I just drilled. That way I line up.

In your case that won't work because you are already glued up. I also have a craftsman port align, it has guide bars that I can use to center on a piece, and could easily drill deep using it.

Very important is to keep clearing chips to prevent build up and walking off or pushing off.

Never heard of a Portalign before. Now I might "need" one. A search for that and I am now thinking I could have used a doweling jig I have with a custom guide.

Hindsight is 20/20. Sheesh.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[dkemppai]

Turned a quick coupling for the damper project. Had a bar of 1144. Why Oh Why don't I buy that instead of any cold rolled or hardware store steel!

Once the coupling was turned, it needed to be pressed with some loctite sleeve retainer. Honestly, it probably didn't need the sleeve retainer. Trying to figure out how to support it, It's a long slender rod, with a 1/16 slot cut most of the way through it.
OK, we all have those "Duuhhhh" moments. That was mine. Holding it in the press was easy...


Drilled and tapped a couple of #4-40 holes for set screws. Only to find I didn't have any #4-40 set screws. OK, I did, they were used elsewhere, so cannibalized the other device temporarily. It all fits! It's way more rigid than the hardware store dampers, and closes off tighter. Now back to writing code.

 

[BHTF7L]

First post in the forum.
Today I finally removed the wall that I had dividing my shop in half.




Without the wall I moved the CNC to the middle of the room, sort of dividing the woodworking side from the metalworking.
Also had the PVC ceiling removed for a contractor to apply a thermal paint to the roof. It's pretty common to have this fiber cement roofing down here in Brazil, and it gets scorching hot. It forced me to also install four roof exhaust fans.

Metalworking side still needs a lot of organization, ran out of time today.

Going to paint the back walls black as well as the roof's beams. Still thinking on some cool art to add to the black wall other than my Youtube channel logo.

 

[extropic]

@BHTF7L

Welcome!

 

[BHTF7L]

@BHTF7L

Welcome!

Thanks extropic!