POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

Have you shared photo of the complete machine?
Yesterday I finished looking everything over which included my $4 clean (half roll of paper towels and a some Zep). For the most part, everything appears to be in good shape. Here is the “Y” ways
IMG_0228.jpeg
X looks the same. I didn’t tear into Z because they are more enclosed and this version has a gib that I didn’t feel like setting up only to tear it down again.
The whole machine:
IMG_0229.jpeg
The wire to the motor has been damage and needs to be replaced and the drive belt is badly cracked. The paint is also fragile. But as dad used to say, “That’s a long way from its heart”.
The drive belt is a small v belt, 11.75” (300mm) circumference. I’ll start hunting one of those today.
My plan is to tear it down in the fall when the shop is complete.
 
Yesterday I finished looking everything over which included my $4 clean (half roll of paper towels and a some Zep). For the most part, everything appears to be in good shape. Here is the “Y” ways
View attachment 456254
X looks the same. I didn’t tear into Z because they are more enclosed and this version has a gib that I didn’t feel like setting up only to tear it down again.
The whole machine:
View attachment 456255
The wire to the motor has been damage and needs to be replaced and the drive belt is badly cracked. The paint is also fragile. But as dad used to say, “That’s a long way from its heart”.
The drive belt is a small v belt, 11.75” (300mm) circumference. I’ll start hunting one of those today.
My plan is to tear it down in the fall when the shop is complete.

Did not know they came in that size! I meant, for vintage machines. Everything I find is huge.

What a perfect machine for a small shop. Great find!
 
Your comment stayed on my mind... I had to go and check now that the rigidizer is a bit more dry...

The top of the crucible is a good 2" above the top border of burner tube...

View attachment 456233

View attachment 456234

View attachment 456235
I think you misunderstand. You do not want the burner flame hitting the side of the crucible directly. You want it below the crucible swirling around the plinth which is sacrificial. A flame hitting the crucible directly can lead to erosion and cracking. I highly recommend Super Salamander crucibles when you get into this a little further.
 
I think you misunderstand. You do not want the burner flame hitting the side of the crucible directly. You want it below the crucible swirling around the plinth which is sacrificial. A flame hitting the crucible directly can lead to erosion and cracking. I highly recommend Super Salamander crucibles when you get into this a little further.
Understood now, thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: rwm
Yesterday I finished looking everything over which included my $4 clean (half roll of paper towels and a some Zep). For the most part, everything appears to be in good shape. Here is the “Y” ways
View attachment 456254
X looks the same. I didn’t tear into Z because they are more enclosed and this version has a gib that I didn’t feel like setting up only to tear it down again.
The whole machine:
View attachment 456255
The wire to the motor has been damage and needs to be replaced and the drive belt is badly cracked. The paint is also fragile. But as dad used to say, “That’s a long way from its heart”.
The drive belt is a small v belt, 11.75” (300mm) circumference. I’ll start hunting one of those today.
My plan is to tear it down in the fall when the shop is complete.
Awesome! Consider a link belt.
 
Was looking for a quick win by putting something together as opposed to taking apart.
Not quite there, need to polish the face up and enamel stick the markings. Maybe tomorrow.
6474047E-7D7D-4892-8F70-947A4EBC7FED.jpeg
Started contemplating the bushing build (left) Got some aluminum to practice with before I turn the 606 bronze info scrap.
E7277E6B-BE10-4E03-A3DE-2A23EE2E38DD.jpeg
 
My son came up over the weekend, and we worked some more on the new engine for his Galaxie. The block had been decked, and between that and normal valve cover sealing surface mismatch between the aftermarket intake and cylinder head combination some adjustment was required. I can't off hand think of any other engine other than these FE's where the intake makes up what would normally be part of the cylinder head. Generally you would remove material from the intake port faces to make corrections, but the head and intake ports lined up fine and the setup for milling the valve cover rails was much easier, and no real math required. Nodded the head to 32deg and took .046 off one side, flipped the setup and took .070 off the other. Pay no attention to the jinky setup, it was actually very solid, and everything came out quite nicely. Was good to be working with my son again, and he will be back over Thanksgiving to hopefully get it buttoned up and back in the car. The last pic was the mismatch before being cut. Cheers, Mike

IMG_20230729_155205821_HDR.jpgIMG_20230729_155224707_HDR.jpgIMG_20230729_155854704_HDR.jpgIMG_20230729_160050682_HDR.jpgIMG_20230729_160835013_HDR.jpgIMG_20230729_160845361.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top