Questions About My New/old Lathe.

In my picture above with the centers and taper adapters can you tell me what the item is at the bottom?
 
I can only guess that It's an arbor out of some machine, maybe for a face mill. It has a flat for a set screw so probably not a chucking arbor.
 
Is there a consensus as to which type of belts are the best to use on these lathes?
 
No, not really. There are two schools of thought or if you prefer, opposing camps. One group swears by link belts. The other by V-belts. I won't try to state figures pertaining to the relative size of the two camps as no one has ever run a survey with enough responses to be meaningful. I've given my personal opinion often enough elsewhere, but won't repeat it here.
 
Do the pulleys that come with this lathe use 3Lxx width v-belts? I know the lengths will be determined by my set up.
 
Dan,

The 6" MK2 uses 2L belts. The 6" MK1 (612, 618, 101.07301 and 101.21400) use 3L belts. The 10" and 12" use 4L belts, except that the late 12" cabinet models also use two Multiple-Belt A-series belts.

The 618 and 101.21400 have a drill template that shows exactly where the M6-20B Countershaft Bracket mounting holes should be drilled relative to the rear left leg mounting bolt hole. I've never seen one showing the L9-20A Countershaft Bracket that at least according to all 101.07301 parts lists shipped with that model. There are at least two versions of what are supposed to be an Owners Manuals for the 101.07301floating around the Internet that have pages added for lubrication, bed leveling, gear clearance and bracket mounting. All four pages were probably actually produced for the 101.21400. The gear clearance and bed leveling ones are applicable as the beds and gears are the same and it doesn't matter that the leveling one uses a drawing of the later machine. The lubrication one is mostly applicable although it shows the later countershaft assembly. The bracket installation one probably isn't actually applicable as there are considerable differences between the two brackets and I have no way of knowing whether the nominal design running location of the countershaft spindle and the motor armature was the same for both models. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to determine the belt numbers for the 101.07301 but given the differences between the two brackets and where the hanger sits, I can't see how the mounting holes could possibly be in the same location.
 
My countershaft has seen better days ... much better. Both bearings are badly scored and the pulley shaft has been so badly scored it is noticeably narrowed. The lever shaft is just worn out.

I've never done anything like this before so tell me, how hard is it to replace the bearings in the countershaft? Is Clausing the source for these?

Both shafts also need to be replaced. Clausing again or are they simple enough to fabricate?
 
I have similar problems. The inside of the pulley will probably be oversize if it spun on the shaft. If I can't find parts, I was thinking of making a slightly larger shaft, and reaming everything to fit. I don't see any real problems in making new shafts if you have the time. I think that anything from Clausing is going to be pricey. Just be careful when taking the pulley's off, that Zamak stuff doesn't have the strength of regular cast iron. You may want to wait for better advise, as I don't claim to be an expert.
 
The pulley with 4 sheaves (?) must not have been tightened down properly and the set screws made lots of small grooves in the shaft. That's where the shaft is worn down considerably. The two ends of that shaft go through the bearing/bushings. Not sure what scored up those bushings but they also look dry.

I'm wondering if those bushings are standard Oilite bushings and can be purchased just about anywhere instead of just through Clausing. Anyone know?

If I can get them out maybe I can measure them and match them up with some Oilite bushings.
 
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