Questions About My New/old Lathe.

Unfortunately, as far as I have found, we have no copies of original drawings for any 6" parts. But the countershaft spindle bushings are undoubtedly commercial parts, probably Oilite. I would call Clausing (armed with the part numbers) and check whether they have the spindle and bushings. If they do, either buy them or don't. If they don't have them, ask for a copy of the drawings. The bushing drawing should have the Oilite part number on it. You should be able to buy the bushings and buy a piece of steel shaft material that all you have to do to is cut to length and slightly bevel the ends. However, I would suggest milling slight flats for the pulley set screws to seat on.

The bushings are pressed in. To remove, you need a receiver with an ID slightly larger than the bushing OD and a length slightly longer than the bushing. And you need a shouldered pusher just slightly (maybe 0.010") smaller in diameter than the bushing and a little longer. On one end, turn down about 1/4" of the length to about 0.005" smaller than the bushing ID. Then use a press to remove the bushings.

I would suggest after installing the new bushings that it would be a good idea to drill a 1/8" diameter hole through the hanger and one side of the bushing. Locate it so that it is accessible from the front of the machine. Use the same oil can as has the special tip for the spring-loaded ball type oilers. Otherwise, most of the oil you squirt on the shaft and bushing is just going to sling off. I don't know why Atlas didn't make some provision for this. Maybe they believed the Oilite advertising. :)

If the 2-step countershaft pulley bore is in fact worn, I would recommend having it bushed and bored to fit the original spindle diameter. Then run a tap drill and 1/4"-20 tap through through the existing threaded hole and through the bushing. If you up the spindle diameter, you'll have to deal with the larger bushings required which will mean boring the 4-step pulley, hanger casting, and collars.

Addenda: According to the parts manuals, all of the countershaft parts except for the bracket casting and hanger casting are the same as on the 618.
 
I made a new countershaft for mine out of some 1/2in steel rod I had lying around, grinding flats for the various set screws. It didn't completely fix the problem as the bushings are still worn, but it helped a bit. I also drilled through the bushings from the oil holes and stuck some bits of felt in the oil holes. Going by the oil that comes out the ends, it's definitely getting to the bushings :)

I do have a plan at some point to make a new countershaft hanger (mine was broken and poorly fixed) to incorporate roller or ball bearings, although that's many moons away!
 
Another problem I have is that the motor pulley is bored for larger than 1/2" (5/8" maybe? I haven't measured yet.). So to go to my 1/3 rd hp motor from the old Delco 1/4 th hp I need a pulley with a smaller bore. Did they make another original motor pulley bored out to 1/2"? I may have to buy a new 1/3 rd hp motor with a matching larger sized shaft.

I'm glad I have another lathe (and I have a mill) to use while I'm working on this one. :D
 
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Dan,

Apparently, up until the mid 1930's, the standard motor shaft diameter for FHP motors was 1/2". So the motor pulleys for the early Atlas machines have 1/2" bores to fit 1/2" motor shafts. The standard began to change to 5/8" and so did the pulleys. In the 40's and 50's the Atlas lathes were shipped with 5/8" bore pulleys and with a 5/8" to 1/2" reducing bushing. You can still I think buy the bushings (usually steel) at most hardware stores.
 
I'm glad you said something. That reminded me that I might already have one of those so I checked and I have 2. They're the split bushings so a set screw can still reach the flat. I found them with my 3 adjustable width pulleys. :)
 
Robert D.,

Just an FYI that my roll pin punches just arrived. I'm glad you talked about them. I can see why they're better than the flat ended punches for roll pins.

Thanks again!
 
Good show (on both counts).
 
One more task accomplished: I removed the bushings from the counter shaft. Took me a few minutes to find something the right size to push them out but they came right out. OD is 5/8", ID is 1/2", and length is 1 1/8". It should be easy to find replacements and press them in. Looks to me like an Oilite AA-632-10 should work.

The bushing size reminded me of something else. I will re-purpose the old bushings as 1/2" to 5/8" motor shaft adapters. They're just the right size for the 1/2" motor shaft and 5/8" bore on the motor pulley. The commercially made adapters I have left a LOT to be desired. Very sloppy fitting. I'll put a hole in a bushing for the set screw to hit the flat on the motor shaft and it will be great.

Now I want to fabricate a replacement pulley shaft for the counter shaft. I need a 1/2" diameter piece of steel but I'm not sure what type of steel would make a decent shaft. It probably doesn't much matter but I will have to file/mill 2 flats on it. What's a good type of steel to use?

And the same question for the 5/8" diameter shaft in the counter shaft that has the lever on it. Same type of steel would work for both I guess.

Suggestions?
 
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Dan,

If the countershaft spindle bearings are worn enough to warrant replacement, I wouldn't use one of them to make a pulley bore substitute. Just buy three of the new ones. Or better yet, buy two of the sintered bronze ones and one in plain brass. And I would agree on the Oilite AA-632-10 for the spindle.

For the spindle and rocker shaft, something like 4130 or Stressproof should work OK.
 
Sorry Robert but I may not have said that clearly enough. The old bushing wouldn't be a pulley bore substitute. The motor pulley fits on the shaft of the motor and turns with it. The old bushing would just fill the gap between the 1/2" motor shaft and the 5/8" bore. There is not bronze bushing in this pulley. It doesn't spin freely on the motor shaft.

I hope that is clearer.
 
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