Rebarrel small ring 95 mauser

My only experience with GM barrels is their rimfire stuff- which is very good. My .22 shoots bugholes all day, and performs beyond my expectations when I take it out. I have seen the GM fullbore barrel blanks and noted the good price for later. I'm sure they would make a good rifle, but if you look at all of the process steps that Krieger takes, you'd have to wonder if GM works to the same level. Now, I'm talking about competitive-tier match rifles by mentioning Kreiger (and their few peers). But what's the difference between 1/2 minute and 1/4 minute accuracy on a sporter (assuming thorough load development)? A Chilean Mauser project would be awesome on a good, new barrel like a GM. Possibly in .257 Bob? I know I would be interested in seeing you do the build and post it here.
 
I would make the chamber and barrel shank while the barrel is still as received. That way any clamping, oops marks etc will be removed when you contour the barrel.
Pierre
 
I have always contoured first so that I can put a nice center hole in each end. If you chamber first then your center has to ride on the edge of the chamber and the chamber depth will likely change by the time you are done threading and making the shoulder and all of the other external machining.

I am a Chevy guy......:rolleyes:
 
I am actually planning 3 builds. First I picked up a Carcano action for next to nothing for something to practice on. It is simply for practice and learning. I will spend way more time than is warranted because it is something to learn on. If I some how mess it up no big deal. It will be a 35 Remington because the 35 Remington case fits the Carcano bolt and the pressure is well within the limits of the Carcano action. One of the Mausers will be a 257 Roberts. I can't decide on the other Mauser. I would like something like a 222 Remington or a 6mm. The problem with the 222 is the cartridge head is way smaller than the Mauser bolt. Any cartridges that fit the bolt have too much pressure for the action. Still pondering what to do with it.
 
The 35 Rem was made for caliber swaps like the Carcano! For the second Mauser, I'm not sure. The 222 Rem is a great cartridge, and you can buy loaded ammo if you want, which makes it appealing. I have a certifiable fetish for 6mm stuff... but I don't know that an antique action is the best place for 6mm handloads to go. I'm thinking fast and light... Of course I'm telling you all the things I think you should build that I really want to be doing myself on one of the "spare" Rem 700s I have laying around. I don't think the wife wants to see any gun parts showing up on the porch right now.
 
Hand chasers?...oddly enough I happened to notice a listing for hand chasers in Blackwoods catalog (Aust)......if you can view part no 0940 3404 in Blackwoods stock online ,you may see a hand chaser pictured.
 
I did a search for hand chasers and found some for sale in England. Based on my test piece it looks like I am able to cut the 12 tpi whitworth threads on my lathe. I will probably do at least one more test before I do an actual barrel. That won't happen until sometime this winter at the soonest.
 
I think that I am falling into the madness category with this. As stated above I made a test piece to cut 12 tpi whitworth threads. I could have just thrown it into the scrap pile. Then I got to thinking if I trued up all of the faces and cleaned up the existing hole while it was still in the lathe everything would be square and concentric. Then I could make a piece to fit the bore that I could use to square up the bolt face and the lugs. I did that this morning. I had never used my knurling tool before. So I knurled the outside edge. Then parted it off. I am actually starting to get the hang of parting. Can you imagine that. Still have to make the piece to square the bolt face. That shouldn't too hard. Famous last words.

IMG_3905.JPG
 
Ive found a quite successful hand chaser can be made from one piece of a "Little Giant" die set (two pieces that fit in a holder)......Incidentally ,to hand chase ,you need a rest bar ,which is simply a 3/8 or app steel bar held in the tool block ......you can also use the smooth surface of a boring bar reversed in the holder......hold the chaser(die 1/2) in a pair of visegrips,or make a dedicated holder ..
 
More madness. I want to learn how to true up an action. That requires having a mandrel that precisely fits in the action. I got this off of a mauser website.

mauser action mandrel.jpg

A while back I picked up a couple of 1 7/8" x 15" round bars to make this mandrel among other things. The more I think about it I would be making a ton of chips to turn the bar that I have down to size. Maybe I should get a 1" bar. The od on a small ring is .980. That would be quicker to make. I also have on hand a .75 stainless steel shaft out of the lower unit of an outboard that I could turn down to .700. Then slip a ring on held in place by a set screw or pin which I would cut a 12 tpi thread. Both large ring and small ring mausers have the same .700 diameter through the action. I could have one ring to fit a small ring mauser and another to fit a large ring mauser. Who knows if I will ever do anything with a large ring mauser action. It would be nice to already have a mandrel that fits a large ring.

Should I make this mandrel all out of one piece or would a two piece mandrel be just as good?
 
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