Restoration of my Schaublin SV52 toolroom milling machine

Back in business again..
I have used the last 3 evenings to tune up the cast iron surface plate I had. The story may qualify for a thread, but I wrapped it into this one and made a video sequence.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2nyrSq0tY4&feature=youtu.be
I did a sequence of roughing and more refined cycles, alltogether close to 30.. each taking about 15-20 minutes I guess. You guys from the Georgia class, does this compute?
PS! I also tried to do a rub on the granite where there was no color, attempting to polish the highest spots, then looking at these shiny spots.. IMG, there were a few..
PS! I used canode highlighter on the last rubs

Feel free to comment, make suggestions, point to errors etc.

For one, I know I can improve on the final result with more scraping. I also realize it is a lot of work to do such a plate, even though it is not such a big one. wow, my sympathy goes to those that do the larger plates.. or did, in the days before granite plates became common. Sure is heavy labor..

PS! I should have ground another set of scraping blade with smaller radius, but used the same.. maybe taking a shortcut and buy directly from Dapra

You may be bored with the lengthy story now, but at least I have started with the mill coloumn ways again, and the blueing seems to confirm previous rubs, so I now have a chart to follow, ie. where to scrape more heavily
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDlGYCYYYbY&feature=youtu.be
Will flip it 180 degrees around just to see that the marking in general follows the way "errors", not the plate (in which case I surely will need to improve the plate)
 
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Jan, That scraping looks like a "pro" did it...super!! Next time you rub the plate and your going to take it off the granite, lay a thin block of wood on the plate and use a long screw driver or pry bar and lever up under one of the handles so one end to break the suction before lifting it up. Will save on back ache and no take a chance of banging the plate to the granite.
The progressive pictures really show the progress. I love the checkerboard look you have too. Some day if you want to make some money you can scrape surface plates for your night job. :))

You really make me so proud to have been your teacher and friend. Keep up the good work!

I was thinking when you set it on the machine to scrape, mic the 4 outer most corners from top to under hold down ways as these should be close to new. and will give you a easy way to keep it parallel.

Take care and GREAT JOB (((((((((((Jan ))))))))))))))))) <--- guy hug

Rich
 
Very nice job being disciplined enough to scrape for just 5 spots / inch all over before refining. That surely saves a ton of time. You are doing a great job!
 
Richard King said:
Jan, That scraping looks like a "pro" did it...super!! Next time you rub the plate and your going to take it off the granite, lay a thin block of wood on the plate and use a long screw driver or pry bar and lever up under one of the handles so one end to break the suction before lifting it up. Will save on back ache and no take a chance of banging the plate to the granite.
The progressive pictures really show the progress. I love the checkerboard look you have too. Some day if you want to make some money you can scrape surface plates for your night job. :))

You really make me so proud to have been your teacher and friend. Keep up the good work!

I was thinking when you set it on the machine to scrape, mic the 4 outer most corners from top to under hold down ways as these should be close to new. and will give you a easy way to keep it parallel.

Take care and GREAT JOB (((((((((((Jan ))))))))))))))))) <--- guy hug

Rich
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words and support Rich! It inspires me to keep going.
Good teachin. To everyone, take the class if you haven't already signed up.

Yeah, I kinda figured there was another way than muscling up to get the plate off the granite.. thanks for the tip

Will keep in mind the 4 corner vs. keep plate tests

Take care too. Hug back
 
Erik Brewster said:
Very nice job being disciplined enough to scrape for just 5 spots / inch all over before refining. That surely saves a ton of time. You are doing a great job!
Click to expand...

Thnks for the nice comments.
It is not a small job to scrape the plate, that is for sure. I wonder how long it would take doing it with a manual scraper. Then again, I tried a couple of manual cycles and I seem to dig in more heavily with the Anderson scraper, so maybe it evens out..
 
Hi again folks,

Not the speediest project, but some progression is made..

Summing up, to improve and qualify the of the column flat/front ways, I used both the long straightedge and the 16x40 surface plate and alternated between checking the progress with the level across/lengthwise. I referenced the flat face of the bore for the cylinder that mates with the milling spindle, and the measurements after scraping corresponds with those taken before (area on the top part of ways used because this was assumed to be unworn). For those not yet bored with my vids, links below.

Blueing as here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIx67K4hG6Q&feature=youtu.be
Level checks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6GvgOik1zY&feature=youtu.be

PS! I experienced some difficulties obtaining the same readings when using the level on top of straightedges (tried several).. I think Richard mentioned this also in another thread. .ie. in essence, I therefore stuck with using the level directly on the ways and got repeatable readings.

I made a small vid also just to show what I found useful when working on the ways.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzxfycWSSCs&feature=youtu.be
Maybe a help for others (and to show the correct way of undoing a “sucked in” plate on the granite..)

I have been using the BIAX with the speed control offered in the way of a VariAC (variable transformer), ie. just slowing the motor down with less voltage. This is NOT possible for eg. an induction motor, where the rpm is controlled with the frequency (like the nowadays usual mounting with a 3 phase motor with inverter drive). In the setup I have, I loose some torque, but the motor seemingly survives fine on 50-60% of the nominal voltage, and it really makes a difference for scraping. Another important factor is the flex in the scraping blade. I have used both the long and short shanks for insert blades, and used these with the Anderson blade (carbide tip brazed to a 2-3 inch long section). If I use a stiff holder I for sure cannot do anything with the power scraper, upping the speed to 100%, it all becomes

The observant viewer may see/hear the diamond wheel on the motor is not perfectly balanced.. this is due to a plastic adapter not turned 100%.. will rectify. Also.. the “table” is not high enough on the wheel (should be halfway up).. was only a temporary mount

NOW, for something new..
I then finally moved on from the front ways and flipped (well, that was maybe a tad easier said than done..) the column over on the side.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9p_M4Mv9hU&feature=youtu.be
As you can see, I used a somewhat un-traditional method of dealing with the casting, but it worked out well. I also like to think it was safe….

So, now that the summer projects are coming to a close I hope I put in more hours on the hobby, stepping up the pace a little (I guess, like many other places on the northern hemisphere we are prepping for winter.. have to do all you can outdoors before the cold sets in, never knowing when the weather wrecks your planned schedule)
 
Thought I was through with scraping the upper side (blued up good..) BUT forgot to check if the side was 90 degrees with the front.
I used a ground V-block to check and seemed to notice an ever-so-slight “rock”. I then made different measurements with different methods, which confirmed the angle was somewhat lessthan 90 degrees, thereby producing this rocking motion.

A general aspect:
It took awhile to understand what were errors introduced by the measurement technique/procedure, and what was real.
Also to get a “concensus” between these results obtained by the different ways of testing
As we learnt “in school”, tapping on a piece of metal against a solid, flat reference, you can hear/feel if there is equal, good contact. This is lacking..
AND I can get a 2/100mm (a little shy of 1/1000 inch) feeler stock some 1/4 way in (if Ikeep it the angle bracket flush with the front ways)
I made tests with a bar located against the sides, using an indicator, the level and a machinist angle. All 4 sides tested to see if eg. the 3 “unspoilt” ares at the top of the sides read the same where I could still see the scraping.. they didn’t.. hmm.. what to make out of that?
Some procedures that rely on a number of factors logically increases the measurement uncertainty, hence you can get conflicting results which really makes it somewhat confusing to interpret, at least for a newbie. Therefore, make “direct” measurements. In essence, keep it simple! This helps in“understanding” the readings.

Admittedly, I made the error not checking the angle while progressing with the scraping. Luckily, the area is small, hence less work, but it serves as a reminder to alternate between checking the “objectives” (as the Connelly book refers to)

I made another spotting tool/90 degree test fixture (tool stelel i think.. proved a challenge to scrape) which I can mount flush to the front ways, and blue up against the sides, in this way proving they are at the exact angles (it probably does not have anything to say for the outsides, as it is “only” the insides that bear, but it is a good test/training for alignment/scraping)

See also video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hdp0zoOQoOs&feature=youtu.be
 
More scraping..
Have tried to keep apace with documenting as I move along, and made a couple of more videos. Hope they are of help to others.

I managed to forget (again) to check if the outer way was "in line" with the inner way, so when I got there, even though this inner way had wear, I saw that I needed to correct the outer way to align it with the inner way.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWozhr3EnKQ&feature=youtu.be
(Pls. disregard the spelling mistakes here and there.. the proof-reader falls asleep sometimes)
PS! I guess it was kinda overkill to finish these outer ways as they are clearance anyway, hence touches "only" on the rear sides.
Anyway, the purpose of this video was also to show the technique of step scraping to correct for this "alignment mistake. Hopefully I did justice to this..

Then I went on to the next side,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLmW_CtSOVU&feature=youtu.be
In this case I had a situation as I had on the camelback I am finishing for my friend, where the straightedge was only touching at the ends, therefore I tried to tip scrape, inwhich case one side is rough scraped only until it bears all over (if I have understood things as they should)

PS! The straightedge I used here (with a cross section reminding of a "squeezed together" thick railroad track) is a member of a family of four of different lengths that I recently aquired. The length is probably not so much of a problem, but the "handling" quality suffers as it weighs in at about 80lbs! However, it is the only one I can use on the inner ways.

The inner ways are straight and parallel to one another within 1/100 mm or 4/10ths as you would say along the 84cm ways (apprx.) 33" ways (as good as I could measure anyway)

By now, I have also finished the rear side of one of the two ways (this will be part of the topic for the next post), ie. one more to go before I can start scraping on the knee! Though I may "do/clean up" the column first with respect to finishing, meaning painting etc. hu..hu.. green (military) color away!?
 
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Hello Jan,

I have been peeking in, periodically, to your post and must say that you possess a very determined nature to go to the great lengths that you are going to and you never give up and accept less even if it means that you have to do something over again. Richard King must be a good teacher to have instilled such a good student in you. It is remarkable the level of work that you are achieving.

Cheers... :)

Brian
 
Thanks for kind words!

Yes, Rich is great teacher, and I learned alot in class. It is also true that the "follow up" he is doing, ie. contributing to our different projects in different ways is very helpful. Now, I don't know your "skill level", but if you aren't a pro, I'd say you should take his class. It shouldn't be that long a jorney for you south (I see you are Canadian.. as is one of nextdoor neighbors as a matter of fact). I keep repeating myself here, but I had such a great time down in Georgia. This will be a lifetime memory. The class, class-buddies, teacher & mentor & friend Rich, the gentleman & host Tommy Brooks and the "surroundings".. oh boy, nice location, big workshop (you have seen mine, I guess?)
Even the hotel, coffee shop and restaurant nearby was great (loved the food with black beans they served).. lady coming with the menu called you honey or sweetheart.. which man at 52 wouldn't fall for that.. ha. ha..

The computer & internet also makes it very easy to share with everyone, and I thought, why not.. We are under "supervision", so to speak, so for the benfit of teaching correct methods (and also corrective measures) such a forum with mentors is a great opportunity to show how this or that is done, or not done, discuss etc. you know, all the reasons for the forums. AND keep up the interest/drive for a project as there is a certain "comittment" in this..

Can't give in now.. the trick is to take one thing at a time, not get swamped by the whole project, the effort that is needed, time it will take etc., though still keeping an overview. Scraping along "in solitude" is rather relaxing on the mind at least (though laborous), I can listen to the radio and take things forward in a careful/planned manner (I am an engineer/detail oriented.. and not a youngster, so put these together, well.. shan't say what the wife says, won't risk to be edited.. ha..ha..)

Mind you, had I done this for the money (lets just assume I was good enough), I think I would need a totally different approach. Then I would probably be past the learning curve, and had to focus on functionality/quality to a certain price and the all-important delivery time. As an amateur, I have that luxury of overlooking these facts that "governs" the workdays for the scraping/machine repair pros (as for all the rest of us in our different jobs).
 
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