South bend 10” lathe on Facebook.

D.sebens said:
I’ll unload with my tractor from the webbing at home. This 10” has one webbing in the middle with a round hole though it. I assume that is the lift point as stated on here? I’ll be taking the drawers out as they contain quite a bit.
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I have an EM56B which has multiple holes in the webbing. Since you only have one hole in the webbing, you could drape the sling over the ways and bring both ends up through the hole to attach to your cherry picker. YOU WILL HAVE TO PUT BLOCKS BETWEEN THE SLING AND BED TO KEEP FROM BENDING THE LEAD SCREW. May need some kind of blocking for the taper attachment also. I usually put the headstock end towards the lift cylinder and bring some ratchet straps to use as a tag line (attached to the boom), and to help level the machine in the air, if moving the tail stock and carriage to the far end doesn’t do it. And a tag line helps to keep the load from shifting. You can turn it sideways and set it on the picker’s legs for moving. The 2 x 6’s laid flat and attached to the bottom of the lathe with the pipe rollers make it easier to position the lathe on the trailer and in the shop. By all means, Bring Help and be careful. HTH
 
OTmachine said:
I have an EM56B which has multiple holes in the webbing. Since you only have one hole in the webbing, you could drape the sling over the ways and bring both ends up through the hole to attach to your cherry picker. YOU WILL HAVE TO PUT BLOCKS BETWEEN THE SLING AND BED TO KEEP FROM BENDING THE LEAD SCREW. May need some kind of blocking for the taper attachment also. I usually put the headstock end towards the lift cylinder and bring some ratchet straps to use as a tag line (attached to the boom), and to help level the machine in the air, if moving the tail stock and carriage to the far end doesn’t do it. And a tag line helps to keep the load from shifting. You can turn it sideways and set it on the picker’s legs for moving. The 2 x 6’s laid flat and attached to the bottom of the lathe with the pipe rollers make it easier to position the lathe on the trailer and in the shop. By all means, Bring Help and be careful. HTH
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It might have more webbing. I didn’t have a ton of time to look. Is your advice if the webbing wasnt in the ideal place?
 
Also the cabinet on the motor side is at an angle in the corner. The guy said he was told it’s like that because it was ran in a truck in the war and that allowed it to fit at the wheel wells. I don’t know if that’s true but it’s pretty cool.
 
D.sebens said:
Also the cabinet on the motor side is at an angle in the corner. The guy said he was told it’s like that because it was ran in a truck in the war and that allowed it to fit at the wheel wells. I don’t know if that’s true but it’s pretty cool.
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True.
 
D.sebens said:
Also the cabinet on the motor side is at an angle in the corner. The guy said he was told it’s like that because it was ran in a truck in the war and that allowed it to fit at the wheel wells. I don’t know if that’s true but it’s pretty cool.
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I usually do it with the blocks so that the sling chokes the lathe keeping it from canting sideways as much. It is not a very balanced load. YMMV.
 
Looking into what lube to use for the oilers on the lathe. Some say 10-30 others spec iso. I have universal tractor hydraulic fluid on hand which I believe is 10w-30. I also have a 5 gallon container of tractor 303 oil which is basically who knows what oil. I’ve never found a use for that. Will either of these oils work for lubing the machine (not the ways, I have way oil for that)
 
D.sebens said:
Looking into what lube to use for the oilers on the lathe. Some say 10-30 others spec iso. I have universal tractor hydraulic fluid on hand which I believe is 10w-30. I also have a 5 gallon container of tractor 303 oil which is basically who knows what oil. I’ve never found a use for that. Will either of these oils work for lubing the machine (not the ways, I have way oil for that)
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As long as whatever oil you use won't attack yellow metal (brass, bronze) you should be fine. ISO is a spec that many different oils can meet, I use VP tractor oil I get from Tractor Supply. Others may say you need specific blends or products, I'm not that picky....

Good luck getting it moved, if you can rent a drop deck trailer life will be much easier. Go slow and think each step through, also don't hesitate to reach out here for help. There may be someone who will drive out and assist, I've had good luck with that and learned quite a bit from the folks who volunteered to help me.

John
 
matthewsx said:
As long as whatever oil you use won't attack yellow metal (brass, bronze) you should be fine. ISO is a spec that many different oils can meet, I use VP tractor oil I get from Tractor Supply. Others may say you need specific blends or products, I'm not that picky....

Good luck getting it moved, if you can rent a drop deck trailer life will be much easier. Go slow and think each step through, also don't hesitate to reach out here for help. There may be someone who will drive out and assist, I've had good luck with that and learned quite a bit from the folks who volunteered to help me.

John
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I think tractor fluid will be fine as it’s rated for transmissions. I’ll check and make sure it’s not ep but I’m almost positive it isn’t. I’ll probably just use the better tractor hydraulic fluid as there’s real specs. The stupid 303 is basically left over oil from the lines of oil plants. You have no idea what you are getting. The only reason I own it is because I inherited it. It’s got lawsuits on it I read. I don’t think they can sell the oil anymore.
 
I have been using the better quality tractor hydraulic fluid for the past 15 years with no ill effects.
 
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