South Bend 9A gut check

A quick update with a quick question for anyone.

I've gotten the apron, saddle, spindle and gear box disassembled, cleaned, felted and re-wicked, re-assembled.
New cross feed nut on the and half nuts.
Lots of hardened grease in the gearbox. Scrubbed all gears in parts washer till shiny again, oiled. Ditto back gears. Bed was power washed. Rack was de-greased and oiled.
New brass plugs for the cross feed dials. Old ones were missing/went missing.
The cross feed dial had a gap of about .015". Shimmed the feed screw and now the gap is gone. Slop in the cross feed screw is now .004'. Good enough?
At this point I'm just going to clean and re-felt the countershaft assembly. Clean up electric motor switch contacts. Throw a belt on and start learning. Problem is I found with the countershaft and bearing galled up about 5/16" in from the large pulley end when I disassembled.IMG_5022.JPG
IMG_5018.JPGIMG_5020.JPG

I'm wondering if this galling is recent or 40 years old? I'm thinking it may not be the worst thing if this doesn't get fixed right away? What's the worst that can happen if it's cleaned, re-assembled and run?
 
I'm not an expert by any stretch but I'd make sure there are no offending burrs on the countershaft axle or the bore and then I'd run it. If I recall correctly from my countershaft assembly the bearing surface is quite wide, at least an inch so there's still plenty of surface to bear the load.
Again, I'm not an expert....
 
The galling is probably from oil starvation sometime in your lathe's life. Stone off any high spots on the inside of the pulley and do likewise for the shaft. If you keep it properly oiled, you'll won't have any problems.
 
Shaft looks good, other not so much.

Oil starvation and maybe dirt.

Belt also way too tight.

Cast iron softer than shaft so shaft won.

Polish shaft.

Many options for other side.

Creative idea...

Shift gears to windmill...?

Aermotor windmill heads A version had poured in Babbet.

B version has a slide in bearing sleeve, 2 versions.

One babbitt, other a resin material.

The housing is worn out bigger with real rough spots, perfect for epoxy to grab.

Some good epoxy, not the 5 minute cheap stuff but the good cures very hard stuff.

I suspect there may be something like brass shavings that are suitable for bushing like support and softer than steel that could be mixed in with the epoxy.

A dummy shaft could be made along with a plastic liner that both would fit the hole to become the mold.

You could first make certain no high spots inside.

Experiment with epoxy and brass powder/shaving mix on scrap, you may need to use a die grinder with carbide cutter to make the chips.

Experiment with filling with tooth paste, smear into grooves then work in liner and shaft.

Once you get the paste correct, and the filling figured out, clean hole with acetone then rub the paste into the grooves and get it coated well.

Insert the plastic liner then dummy shaft.

Let cure for a week.

Remove parts then with file carefully shape the epoxy, only enough for shaft to fit properly.

Remember to use a good quality correct belt so it can work without being too tight.

Good correct belt should not need too much force.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
Thanks everyone.
Kinda hoping that was the case as the bore grooved bore does have plenty of good length left in it. Thanks for the repair idea tq60. If it really bugs me I'll have a good idea of what can be done to do a repair.

For the first time I'm beginning to see some daylight and hope to have it running by this weekend. Have some electrical cord/ motor connection ugly to clean up.

Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
 
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