The Voron kit build thread

AlanB said:
My son has an Artillery X1. It has been a decent printer but it has some issues, for example they don't allow storing changes to the eeprom. One can jailbreak it and install a newer Marlin, but mostly people have moved on to the X2 or other printers, most X1 stuff I find is very old. We could move it to Klipper but I'm thinking that perhaps it is time to move him to a Voron, perhaps a V2.4 350. The X1 has a 300x300x400 build volume, very tall but how often does one really go that tall? Especially on a bed slinger, seems like acceleration would reduce print quality and the filament jerk on the tool head at the top of the gantry would be substantial. Anyway a Voron V2.4 350 would be interesting to build (and lots of exercise). :)
Click to expand...

I bet he would be pretty stoked to get a Voron 2.4.

And getting to build one with your son is it's own reward.
 
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My next Voron is a little one. A Voron Zero.

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Dwarfed by the RailCore. First Print. Not quite finished, panels and tophat still to go, but functional. Cute little Voron V0.2 printer. Very quiet motors, mostly the noise is fans which will be reduced when the panels and tophat go on. No display on this one yet, probably will add one later. Bondtech LGX Lite extruder, E3D Revo hotend. Pi 4B-2G running Klipper. BTT SKR Pico controller, LDO Picobilical frame board. Kirigami bed. LDO Voron V0.2-S1 Kit with a few minor mods.

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Turns out the rear acrylic is tinted so you can see the electronics in there.
 
Here the Voron V0.2 is with the panels and tophat on, and a fresh calibration cat on the build plate.

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The colorful LGX Lite extruder cable is very long and on my list to shorten. I haven't decided what to do about a display on this machine. The standard V0 display is quite small, and this kit didn't include it. The 4.3" LCD I used on the Trident won't fit very well on this small frame. The web interface is nice so a built in display is not actually required. The spool holder is a mod design that folds, but it doesn't stay put very well. The stock spool holder doesn't fold and can get in the way when moving this extremely portable little printer.

I purchased this kit from Fabreeko. They also sell the printed parts set to go with it, in fact the same Voron PIF provider that made my Trident parts made these Commercial PIF parts. I added my own Pi 4B-2G since it didn't come with a Pi. I saw recently that Digikey had thousands of Pi's in stock at standard prices which is a nice trend. Some vendors have started including Pi's with kits again which is excellent. Our LDO V2.4 kit included a 4B-2G (from West3D). I'm not quite ready to start on that project, first we need to make space (and a new workbench) to get the Prusa XL off the dining room table before family celebrations coming soon... And get these two Vorons dialed in precisely enough to print our own parts for the V2.4. :)
 
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You guys doing a bed besh calibrate for every print, or just saving the bed mesh profile and using the same profile long term?

I've been using the same bed mesh profile for a year, for every material.

I read something a couple weeks ago about the bed mesh being different at different bed temps, which totally makes sense.

Right after I read that, I changed my print start macro to include a bed mesh calibrate. Now after the bed comes up to temp, it does a bed mesh calibrate for every single print. I seem to be getting significantly better bed adhesion now.

If you guys have been doing this the whole time and I'm just now discovering the obvious, feel free to disregard. If not, consider giving it a try.

Interesting thing. Looking over the heightmaps during prints of different materials, and my bed is actually flatter printing ABS @110c than it is printing PLA @55c. At 55c its shaped like a bowl, that is about .07mm higher at the corners than at the middle. At 110c, its .035mm higher at the corners.

I can post up my print start macro if it helps?
 
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BTW, if you guys are using the stock spool holder, in the stock location, I designed an low friction alternative to reduce some issues I was having with TPU.


After a few test prints and some input from other users on Printables, It's dialed in and works quite well. It requires the following hardware:

2ea m3x12 SHCS
2ea m3 T-nuts
1 m3 heat set insert
1 m3x8mm SHCS
2ea 6082rs or 608zz bearings



exploded.jpg



Printables

www.printables.com www.printables.com
 
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