Threading problem

kmanuele said:
Going to try some knurling on that brass piece, after I figure out how to set the diameter for the knurl pitch.
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Don't bother with trying to set the diameter. The knurling tool will most of the time track in the groove from the previous revolution. Bump knurler or scissor type? Just remember to use lots of lube.

kmanuele said:
Next: steel. Enjoyed grinding the tools for brass. Steel tools seem a bit more complicated.
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They're not really all that complicated - a little side rake, a little top rake and a little front rake (it will look a lot like your threading tool, except for the top rake and a small radius). Use an India stone to give yourself the small radius at the tip (~ 1/32" to 1/16") - you'll find that the grinding wheel is just too aggressive to put on a proper radius. Also use the stone to give yourself smooth surfaces where the tool will touch the metal - you'll get a better finish.
 
Knurler: bump knurler in a quick-change config. Came with the quick change tool set. I'll give it a try on unsized piece first.

Re: steel. I did radius the tools on the grinder. It is a challenge with fine grit wheel even with a 1750 RPM grinder. It looked (and felt) smooth but there were still lines on the finish. Tried polishing with a medium diamond hone, but marginal results. Need to work on this.

Thanks again
 
I'd like to offer more threading advice.............but I have none...... stellar results.
Congratulations!

Brian
 
kmanuele said:
Knurler: bump knurler in a quick-change config. Came with the quick change tool set. I'll give it a try on unsized piece first.
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Be careful with the "stock" wheels in a QCTP config. It's been my experience that they are nothing but junk! If they are the usual crap, then knurling with them will bring you nothing but misery. One of my "stock" wheels wasn't even concentric with the center hole! Give your tool a try just for S&G's - just don't be discouraged if the results turn out to be crap, because it probably isn't your fault. Get yourself some quality US made wheels, such as these available form McMaster-Carr.
 
Mine had about 10 thousands of runout. Each! They looked like camshaft lobes. I checked them in the garbage after the first use, and ordered some from us made knurls.
 
SLK001 said:
Be careful with the "stock" wheels in a QCTP config. It's been my experience that they are nothing but junk! If they are the usual crap, then knurling with them will bring you nothing but misery. One of my "stock" wheels wasn't even concentric with the center hole! Give your tool a try just for S&G's - just don't be discouraged if the results turn out to be crap, because it probably isn't your fault. Get yourself some quality US made wheels, such as these available form McMaster-Carr.
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Thanks for link. I ordered a clamp-style knurler, import. Don't expect high quality but these things can be tweaked. Will order some wheels from your link.
 
Concentricity on the stock QCTP knurling rolls is not really a problem. The axle screws are ususally .015 smaller than the ID of the wheel. At least that's what I found on mine.
 
SLK001 said:
Be careful with the "stock" wheels in a QCTP config. It's been my experience that they are nothing but junk! If they are the usual crap, then knurling with them will bring you nothing but misery. One of my "stock" wheels wasn't even concentric with the center hole! Give your tool a try just for S&G's - just don't be discouraged if the results turn out to be crap, because it probably isn't your fault. Get yourself some quality US made wheels, such as these available form McMaster-Carr.
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It just occurred to me what S&Gs means ;) , from my early life.

thx
 
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