Tips on hand machining with a cold chisel.

[Downunder Bob]

Let's do it again
Btw what kind of advantages do I have
By making the bottom flat and parallel to the body of the chisel

Not sure what you are trying to achieve here Koi. the top one is the closest to what a chisel should look like, although it appears to have ansty crack in it. All of them are a bit too long and slender, you need to have more body behind the point, these look more like wood working chisels.

 

[Koi]

Not sure what you are trying to achieve here Koi. the top one is the closest to what a chisel should look like, although it appears to have ansty crack in it. All of them are a bit too long and slender, you need to have more body behind the point, these look more like wood working chisels.

Ahh that one is bound useless already but I'm using the previous picture since it contains the successful ones and I want to achieve a cold chisel that can make a better cut than those commercially made chisel that has double sided bevel which is what I'm suspecting what's causing inconsistent cut

 

[Koi]

I made a project of cutting a v-slot in a tooling plate using hand tools. No, it is not finished yet, but it is coming along surprisingly well given how badly it all started out.

I started the slot with a hacksaw, then used a cape chisel to widen it, then used square files to form the V. The chisel did not work well; chips would snap off before they even got to an inch long. The steel plate is some of that 1/4" mystery stuff they sell at the hardware store, and is much harder than I expected it to be.

You might try using a file or hacksaw to score the line for the slot, as that will break through the skin of the metal which may be hard. Also, clamp some pieces of wood to either side, making a guide about the width of the chisel. I didn't do this, and marked up the tooling plate something ugly.

I haven't seen any soid advice on the angle for the chisel. It's always "too large an angle from the surface and the chisel won't cut; too small an angle and the chisel will get dull fast". Maybe hone the chisel on a stone and try a smaller angle?

EDIT: This guy appears to be using a 45 degree angle.

 

[Koi]

Chisels were once the primary tools used for metal cutting, machining, as it were. It is a lost art perfected only with time and practice. I'm guessing there are a fair number of people proficient in the craft in some third world countries. Here not so much...............Bob

I think I did it

 

[Koi]

I think I did it guys sort of.I putted a slot on the side of a piece of stainless steel plate.

 

[Downunder Bob]

I think I did it guys sort of.I putted a slot on the side of a piece of stainless steel plate.

Progress, was that with a home made chisel, or a shop bought one? Well done one small step in your personal learning curve. I bet it mad you feel real good.

 

[Koi]

Progress, was that with a home made chisel, or a shop bought one? Well done one small step in your personal learning curve. I bet it mad you feel real good.

A shop bought one sadly.I know it's a turn off but it could be done but I don't wanna waste too much time on making one that's gonna work like what I expect it to be so I bought one and file it Down to approximately 6mm of width.It's a stanley btw and I feel really good about what I achieved for now.Oh yeah moral of the story,chisseling a quite accurate profile requires patience and a good judgement.

 

[Downunder Bob]

Yes it is a skill, but like any other skill it can be learned, and patience is the main ingredient. You have started the learning curve, and have already been rewarded, stick with it and enjoy.

 

[Koi]

I was planning on getting a round column mill but I think my hand tools might just be enough haven't got a dial indicator and a micrometer though

 

[RJSakowski]

It is my understanding that the steel used for automotive axles is medium carbon steel. Automotive springs can be a little higher but are generally not high carbon steel. Older springs are more likely to be higher in carbon. Some of the alloys used in recent times can be lower carbon. In selecting reclaimed steels it is wise to consider what the original purpose was. Automotive axles need to be tough, not hard. 1050 steel is a common choice. Springs need to be resilient, not hard.

For a cutting tool like a cold chisel, the edge must be hard enough to cut the object without deforming.or easily losing its edge. A medium carbon steel will generally not reach that hardness. 1050 has an ultimate hardness of 58C. By comparison, O1 has an ultimate hardness of 65C and M2 HSS has an ultimate hardness of 66C and is usually tempered to a hardness in the low sixties HRC. 1095 has approximately 1% carbon which is commonly considered the minimum for cutting tools. O1 tool steel also has around 1% carbon. W1 tool steel runs slightly higher and was perhaps the original tool steel can reach an ultimate hardness of 67C. A 400ºF temper will still leave it in the low to mid sixties, HRC.