Too fast or too slow?

[RaisedByWolves]

PM835S. Not a heavy mill.

1400lbs, so no, but you have the advantage if it being new and tight and when properly setup it will probably get some work done.

I like it!

As far as light mills go, Im currently building this for my basement so I dont have to freeze in the garage in the winter.






Probably 200lbs total when finished, and will go along nicely with this.

 

[walterwoj]

I have an induma mill, it's a heavy clone of a Bridgeport (3 phase 1.5 hp with vfd), it actually was not complaining about that cut, that's why I let it ride. The finished slot is going to be 1.25" wide (I'm making a bxa tool holder for a knurling tool I'm making) so I have lots of space for cleanup, I have been learning to push my machine a bit lately (still not trying to get production rates) and have been pleasantly surprised. While I hate wasting a good endmill this is the cost of learning. I have been buying better tooling and to a point it has been worth the money. I use Niagara cutters for most endmill. Great price for the quality and I can get them on Amazon!

A lot of you guys are giving me numbers for hss so that is why the calculators are not agreeing.

Now that I have work hardened the steel do you guys have any suggestions for saving this piece and finishing the cut?

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[Inferno]

I have an induma mill, it's a heavy clone of a Bridgeport (3 phase 1.5 hp with vfd), it actually was not complaining about that cut, that's why I let it ride. The finished slot is going to be 1.25" wide (I'm making a bxa tool holder for a knurling tool I'm making) so I have lots of space for cleanup, I have been learning to push my machine a bit lately (still not trying to get production rates) and have been pleasantly surprised. While I hate wasting a good endmill this is the cost of learning. I have been buying better tooling and to a point it has been worth the money. I use Niagara cutters for most endmill. Great price for the quality and I can get them on Amazon!

A lot of you guys are giving me numbers for hss so that is why the calculators are not agreeing.

Now that I have work hardened the steel do you guys have any suggestions for saving this piece and finishing the cut?

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

Shallower passes from the other side.

 

[Batmanacw]

1400lbs, so no, but you have the advantage if it being new and tight and when properly setup it will probably get some work done.

I like it!

As far as light mills go, Im currently building this for my basement so I dont have to freeze in the garage in the winter.


View attachment 451859



Probably 200lbs total when finished, and will go along nicely with this.


View attachment 451860

Nice! I'd love to have those for my basement shop!

 

[OTmachine]

I

A lot of you guys are giving me numbers for hss so that is why the calculators are not agreeing.

Now that I have work hardened the steel do you guys have any suggestions for saving this piece and finishing the cut?

This is the reason for the HSS. Less chance of ruining a part. Carbide does not like shock, chips easy, imparts a Lot of heat into part. Need a tight, stout machine for hogging.

 

[walterwoj]

Just a follow up, Thanks to you guys and some googleing/youtubeing I have a better understanding of in/tooth and speeds on my power feed, after I replaced that broken mill I've been powering along quite well. I keep the speed/feed a bit on the low side of recommended and I marked out the speeds on my power feed (for ballpark speeds). I've been getting good chips and I haven't wasted any endmills recently! Thanks all!

 

[AGCB97]

I haven't burned up a tool on the mill since I started using spray coolant ALL the time.
Aaron

 

[woodchucker]

I haven't burned up a tool on the mill since I started using spray coolant ALL the time.
Aaron

same here

 

[Fasturn]

Forget about the book on feed and speeds. Every machine, tool holder , tool length, coolant type, endmill quality IS different. If you are on BP mill try 600 rpm for HSS and about 1400 for carbide.
You only want a little color on the chips / swarf. If you see blue your endmill is done in HSS. Cobalt is a good choice for steel. Carbide is brittle. Needs alot of support ( heavy ridged spindle ) or its will crack on the edges. When I was employed on a large Haas mill, I tried the book to see how it would work. 3/8 4fl. carbide went about 3" then snap. Lol, this old dog doesn't need a book, it will let you know what it likes ( endmill ) and doesn't like. Roughing endmills breaks up the chips and tool pressure. Great way to rough out steel parts. You can run mills slower, but too fast will cost you money $$ €€

 

[woodchucker]

Forget about the book on feed and speeds. Every machine, tool holder , tool length, coolant type, endmill quality IS different. If you are on BP mill try 600 rpm for HSS and about 1400 for carbide.
You only want a little color on the chips / swarf. If you see blue your endmill is done in HSS. Cobalt is a good choice for steel. Carbide is brittle. Needs alot of support ( heavy ridged spindle ) or its will crack on the edges. When I was employed on a large Haas mill, I tried the book to see how it would work. 3/8 4fl. carbide went about 3" then snap. Lol, this old dog doesn't need a book, it will let you know what it likes ( endmill ) and doesn't like. Roughing endmills breaks up the chips and tool pressure. Great way to rough out steel parts. You can run mills slower, but too fast will cost you money $$ €€

I have watched many times where a cnc mill will run fast and take small cuts and hog out metal.
I also watched a cnc mill take a super deep cut while running fast and slower feed.
While I am sure your experience is a thousand times more than mine, I have seen it in videos. I have also started using higher speeds and faster myself. So, I don't understand.