tramming tool

DaveH said:
ummm - not sure, must be something in the tea :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

So what are your thoughts, as regards using the 5MT in the spindle?

:drink:
DaveH
Click to expand...
well if i inserted a straight edge in my toolpost small enough to go inside the spindle and line it up to the inside wall by useing the compound that might give me the degree that i want
 
DaveH said:
Irishwoodsman,

You don't have a dial gauge, because that may go in. I'm just a bit concerned a straight edge may scratch (or worst) the spindle taper.

:drink:
DaveH
Click to expand...
ok i have a dial gauge and i already have my measurement for the mt 5 but i'm needing the degree of the compound in order to machine the 5 mt
 
DaveH said:
Sorry I was a bit slow posting.

You can use the dial test indicator held in tool post to allow you to turn the compound slide so that the dial test indicator runs along the spindle taper. When the angle of the compound slide matches the angle of the 5MT spindle taper the dial test indicator will keep the same reading (no variation) as the compound slide is moved in and out.:)
:drink:
DaveH
Click to expand...
ok i understand that but this is a inside taper roughly 2 3/4 in length will that type of indicator go inside the spindle that far
 
DaveH said:
Irishwoodsman,

Just about, may take a little bit of fiddling :)

Just remember to run the test indicator on the side centre line of the taper, not the top or bottom of the taper --just kidding:biggrin:

And depending on which side of the taper you use for the test indicator will determine which way the taper will be cut. ie whether the largest dia is nearest to the tailstock or the head stock.

:drink:
DaveH
Click to expand...
gotcha thanks a whole lot for your help and thanks the other guys for their input happy turning
 
"i'm needing the degree of the compound in order to machine the 5 mt"

Degree isn't good enough. You can even get close with 1 degree precision. Here's what you do:

Put a piece of large diameter material in your chuck and take a light cut at least 2" long. The reason for the large diameter is that it is easier to indicate from.
Check the cut to make sure your lathe didn't cut a taper. If it did, that will have to be part of the calculation coming up.

A #5MT has a taper of 0.0526"/in on the diameter. That means the radius changes 0.0263"/in.

Set the compound to 1.5 degrees (as close as you can) Then mount a good dial indicator on the compound. Make to shaft of the DI as close to perpendicular and on center of the test cut as bst you can.
Back the compound up and bring the cross slide up until the DI is loaded against the test cut. Using the scale on the compound, advance the compound to take out lost motion, then zero the scale.

The length along the outside of the taper is slightly longer than the axial length. In this case it is only 1.0003"/in, so we won't worry about it.

If the compound it dead on, the DI should indicate .0526" when you advance the compound 2" (2.0006 if you think you can). So play with the compound angle until you get it right.

When you're doing this it's always a good idea to tighten up the gibs as much as practical.

Buy a #5 Morse socket anything, and use it to test your taper. Most likely you will need to file it a bit to get it dead on.
 
geotek said:
"i'm needing the degree of the compound in order to machine the 5 mt"

Degree isn't good enough. You can even get close with 1 degree precision. Here's what you do:

Put a piece of large diameter material in your chuck and take a light cut at least 2" long. The reason for the large diameter is that it is easier to indicate from.
Check the cut to make sure your lathe didn't cut a taper. If it did, that will have to be part of the calculation coming up.

A #5MT has a taper of 0.0526"/in on the diameter. That means the radius changes 0.0263"/in.

Set the compound to 1.5 degrees (as close as you can) Then mount a good dial indicator on the compound. Make to shaft of the DI as close to perpendicular and on center of the test cut as bst you can.
Back the compound up and bring the cross slide up until the DI is loaded against the test cut. Using the scale on the compound, advance the compound to take out lost motion, then zero the scale.

The length along the outside of the taper is slightly longer than the axial length. In this case it is only 1.0003"/in, so we won't worry about it.

If the compound it dead on, the DI should indicate .0526" when you advance the compound 2" (2.0006 if you think you can). So play with the compound angle until you get it right.

When you're doing this it's always a good idea to tighten up the gibs as much as practical.

Buy a #5 Morse socket anything, and use it to test your taper. Most likely you will need to file it a bit to get it dead on.
Click to expand...
ok i got it, now this will work the same way on a short morse taper right, since i am setting the compound degree a tad more for the taper being shorter, i think i said this right
 
There is no official "short" #5 taper that I am aware of. What are you making?
 
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