Treadmill motor conversion for planer feed - running too fast

[ErichKeane]

A jack shaft would be good but I've no idea where to get one and space is quite tight in there

You could always just make a gearbox for the end of the motor

 

[KevinH]

Make a gear box??

You say that like you're not even insane

 

[ErichKeane]

Make a gear box??

You say that like you're not even insane

Its actually not that bad, it is 2 gears, a shaft, and 2 plates to hold the shafts/gears. (Obviously not a shiftable gearbox). The only somewhat challenging part is finding a place on the motor or area around the infeed to mount it to.

 

[KevinH]

I want to believe you - I really do

 

[KevinH]

I'm in between 2 big jobs at the moment - I just finished a big commission and am about to start another. At times like this I look around the workshop and try to fix what needs fixing or tackle what's on the to-do list.

I'm in the middle of taking apart a newly acquired 1960s (I think) Wadkin spindle moulder (shaper) to fix it up for the up-comming job. So I'm in machinery-mode instead of woodworking mode.

I've had a lot of false starts on this planer DC motor conversion, every time I hit a wall it goes on the long finger. Unfortunately if I have to start making jack shafts or gear boxes that will probably happen again as I can't wait too long between jobs. These materials aren't easy to find in Ireland and what is reasonably cheap in the US can become expensive after shipping and import duty to get it sent over here.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

Try making a super large (as large as will fit) pulley out of wood for the driven end. Like 8-10" at least. Should have enough grip at least to see if you're getting down into the right speed range. Most likely there'll be enough grip with that much wrap of a poly V belt.

 

[FanMan]

A jack shaft for speed reduction can be very simple to make, here's one I did to slow down my bandsaw. Steel round stock for the shaft, pulleys, two pillow block bearings, all from McMaster. The only real machining work to make it was milling keyways for the pulleys.

 

[KevinH]

It looks like this is going on the relatively long finger for the time being. I have been thinking about it though and I reckon I could squeeze a countershaft into the cabinet.

I'll have to look into whether McMaster Carr deliver to Ireland and if it's not exorbitantly expensive, or try find somewhere closer

 

[FanMan]

Just in case anybody's interested, this what I used, it gave a 3.5:1 reduction, not counting the pulley sizes on the motor and saw itself :

2​	5913K62​	Low-Profile Mounted Sealed Steel Ball Bearing for 5/8" Shaft Diameter​	$10.95​	$21.90​
1​	5227T272​	Tight-Tolerance 12L14 Carbon Steel Rod Ultra-Machinable, 5/8" Diameter, 1 ft. Length​	$7.86​	$7.86​
1​	98510A117​	Undersized Steel Machine Key Stock Zinc-Plated, 3/16" x 3/16", 12" Long​	$1.05​	$1.05​
1​	6245K16​	Pulley for 4L, A V-Belts, 2" OD, for 5/8" Shaft Diameter​	$6.25​	$6.25​
1​	6245K53​	Pulley for 4L, A V-Belts, 7" OD, for 5/8" Shaft Diameter​	$24.89​	$24.89​
​	​	​	Merchandise Total​	$61.95​

All pretty standard stuff, I would think there are industrial suppliers over there with similar stuff.

 

[hman]

Bigger pulleys!
I actually thought of that on day one but couldn't get the big fly wheel pulley off the motor spindle so put it out of my mind.

On the treadmill motors I've encountered, the pulley is LEFT-HAND threaded onto the motor shaft. Of course, yours may be different ... but it might be worth a try.